Nobody mentioned rust yet so I will. These cars are prone to rust so you should check it over thoroughly. Do a search for rust on the forum here and you will see lots of threads containing information on where to check. I will just say that the front frame rails are the biggest concern.

Yes Mike, the set looked brand new. The guy had a link to his site that walked you through the process of cleaning them. They are cleaned and tested and the seller claims they are all matched to 1%. I was very happy with the kit.

Soldering is not that hard. I'm not the best at it but got it done. The ones from MSA I believe are made for the thermotime switch and the bullet connectors shown do not match up on the injector wires. I suppose you could splice some inline vs. soldering.

Nobody mentioned rust yet so I will. These cars are prone to rust so you should check it over thoroughly. Do a search for rust on the forum here and you will see lots of threads containing information on where to check. I will just say that the front frame rails are the biggest concern.

And under the battery tray! The P.O. told me my car was solid, even under the battery tray. Of course, that wasnt the case. Once I pulled up all the battery residue, literally 1/2 inch thick, it was cracked and rusted. I opened up 2 nice size holes.

Thats what I get for using Ebay and buying a car 2000 miles away.

I looked for rust inside and out. It was kinda hard since the interior carpet had been redone, and the only way to see it would be to rip it out. I wanted to look underneath the car but it was too low and my fat head wouldn't fit. I did manage to lift the hood up and i couldn't see any rust. However, I think i will do a search on areas to look for as i really didn't know where to look at the time.

I've never bought a car from a private owner before. As far as signing over the papers and DMV, i'm not sure what to do. I was thinking of paying with a cashiers check or some form that would prove I payed for it. Also I know it needs to be smogged, but since the cars a non op does that mean i have to smog it?

The more information I know the better, that way i can give the car a thorough inspection before paying.

Edited August 31, 200915 yr by mike's78z

A good start is to read the section on "Z Ownership" over on www.zhome.com. As far as the smog question, every state is different but generally you won't need to get it smogged until you're ready to put it on the road. Another thing you can do it post your location and ask for some help inspecting it. Many times a local from the board will be willing to come out and help you with the inspection. There's nothing better than an experienced Z nut to help identify areas of concerns.

Meeting up with the seller some time this week to thoroughly inspect the car and sign the papers. Any last minute advice? Time is of the essence.

I have a good running 78 z here in Seymour,Texas.It has new fuel pump put on and runs really hard.It needs a little bodywork and interior is in fair condition.Only asking $1100 for this little baby!! GREAT BUY!!940-256-3467..Calvin

Also check the spark plugs, my other car had a dead cylinder a little bit back that did the same. Basically, just had to change the spark plug as that one was dead.

I have a good running 78 z here in Seymour,Texas.It has new fuel pump put on and runs really hard.It needs a little bodywork and interior is in fair condition.Only asking $1100 for this little baby!! GREAT BUY!!940-256-3467..Calvin

Good luck with your sale but to hyjack and existing thread with your only post on this site so far isn't really the way to go about it. Start your own thread in the classified section.

Also I know it needs to be smogged' date=' but since the cars a non op does that mean i have to smog it?[/quote']In California, even though it's on a non-op, it will need to be smogged for the change of ownership if you plan to drive it on the streets. The only way you wouldn't have to smog it is if you intended to keep it on non-op.

Thanks for the info. Sometimes the things you write don't come out sounding like you intended. It might just be cheaper for me to keep it non op at the moment. I'll give the spark plugs a check when i sign the papers. I got held up this week so i had to reschedule.

I don't think i want to drive all the way to Texas when i got a perfectly good deal here in California. Thanks anyway.

Question: i bought a haynes repair manual that claims its for the 240z-280z, but it hardly mentions the 280z. Are the 260z and 280z pretty much the same as far as the chassis goes? (meaning suspension, drivetrain, etc? I know there were modifications made to the engine.

The 240, 260 and 280 are all based on the S30 chassis design. There are subtle changes but most of the basics are the same. The 280Z engine is fuel injected so hopefully they at least cover that portion in some detail. You'll definitely want a FSM (factory service manual). You can them find on eBay, or download an electronic copy from a few sources.

Sometimes the things you write don't come out sounding like you intended.

Amazing that you can determine my intent by simply reading my typed words. What didn't you get or what was it that was unclear? If you plan to legally drive it on the streets it has to be smogged, if not you'll have to pay the no-op fees to prevent paying penalities when and if you plan to legally put it on the street.

Edited September 5, 200915 yr by sblake01