Where is the best place to cut out my rusted batt area.

[balaguy]

THe batt tray is gone the inner fender is rusted out about the size of half the battery's base to the firewall. I just purchased a clean front clip and i and i would like to make this as painless as possible. My question is should i drill out the spot welds on the inner side of the strut tower and match up my new piece all the way to the fire wall, or make the patch as minimal as i can. I dont want to mess with the camber or alingment of the car but would like to keep it as strong as i can since i have all the steel. Would prefer to not do a whole clip conversoin for a 6X8 hole. If any one would like to share where the did their cutting and the issues they may have encoutered i would appreciate the input, befor i make any cuts.

thanks

andy

[Zs-ondabrain]

I would personally cut a small "Patch" panel from the spare clip and weld that in instead. You'll keep the integrity of the original, use POR15 over the panel on the inner wheel well side of the sheet metal, and POR15 the battery area as well after you've ground it down to a clean finish.

Lot less work, strong sheet metal and protected from further issues. Then Re-undercoat the inner wheel-well and paint the engine compartment. Know one will know but you, (and maybe me) ha-ha

Dave

Edited August 23, 2009 by Zs-ondabrain
missed a word to clarify the size

[=Enigma=]

I haven't done this myself, but I see no reason to cut away any more good metal than necessary. Just cut out the rust and and go with the smallest patch necessary to fill the hole.

[balaguy]

Thats what i would like to do, I just want to make sure im heading the right direction.

[beandip]

since you have the whole clip. Cut the rusted metal back to where you find good metal. I just use a saws-all. then cut and fit a like replacement and weld all in place. POR is highly recommended . But if you use this stuff do not cut corners and follow the makers instructions. If you try and cut corners then don't bother because the result you won't likely be happy with the result.

I used self tapping sheet metal screws to hold the new metal in place. Then just remove the screws and fill the holes when you weld in the panel.

Gary

[Frankensteinz2]

Im not sure what you mean by the clip, my lingo isn't very good. But i just did the battery area, and removed the fenders for rust proofing, used por 15. I just started cutting til the rust was gonna, the tray, and the landing underneath. I used 22 gauge sheets from Lowes. because it bends pretty easy and still has ok strength. Didn't need screws as the shapes just held themselves in place, till i mig welded them. One thing to watch, keep your battery tray level, my came out with a bit of a tilt, and i lost some height. Measure so you can get back to the original dimensions.

Frankie

[Zs-ondabrain]

A "Clip" is a section of a vehicle, kinda like a rear quarter clip, which would include the quarter panel, as far forward as the dogleg by the door, up near the roof where the hatch meets is and around the back corner. A front clip would be everything forward of the firewall or half of that (Left or right side)

As for the battery tray, most 240Z's that need battery tray repair are best off cutting one out of a junker 280Z. Usually have less rust and are stronger due to better steel, folds and less age. I did this by cutting the spot welds with a spot weld drill bit. but a 3/8" bit works pretty good. Level the car then use a level on the tray when you tach it in place.

By the way, Gary and Adam said basically the same thing I did. Cut out the rust and cut a matching patch from your used clip.

Dave

[balaguy]

Thanks guys for the help. You all told me what i wanted to hear, and without any negative feedback/personal cheap blows (I think there is some retired individuals that just sit at home and put there 10 cents into every comment on this site.)

greatly appreciated

Andy Balaguy