Broke diff. insulator/arrestor strap source?

[Weasel73240Z]

I developed the dreaded "rear end clunk", while shifting into 1st and 2nd gear, about a month ago. I read enough on here to look at the rear diff insulator 1st, and sure enough, its was broken in 2 pieces. I have already ordered a new one from Courtesy, should be here in a few days.

My question is, could my old arrestor strap have contributed to this, by allowing the nose of the diff too much movement? I'm not sure if that's even what the arrestor strap does, but I'm wondering if I should be replacing that at the same time? It looks fine, not broken, or even frayed, but I didn't know if they could stretch and contribute to the stress of the diff insulator. I would've just ordered it with the insulator, but couldn't find it any of my usual parts sources.

Thanks.

[Darrel]

Check on hybridz for the ron tyler differential mount. You can use this along with the stock mount and a frame snubber to sandwhich the front of the diffy between the stock mount and the RT mount. It mounts in place of the strap assembly.

[sblake01]

Depends on what you want to do. I repalced the insulator and strap on mine about 10 years ago. It cured the clunk and it never came back. I figure that since it was okay when I bought the car in 1997 and the clunking began in 1999, the original strap and/or insulator lasted for 20+ years. The problem is, though I was able to purchase a strap through the dealer in 1999, from what I understand, they're unabailable through Nissan now. And, yes, when compared to the new one, from what I recall, the old one was stretched.

Edited August 29, 2009 by sblake01

[ConchZ]

I have a similar clunk issue. I've replaced the mount, but not the strap. Today, with one rear tire removed and the car on a jack stand, and the other rear tire barely touching the ground, I had a friend put it in gear and let the clutch out just enough to make the car shift forward a bit, and then do it again in reverse. The position of the car on one jack stand lets you see the differential. (hint, throw an old wheel and tire under the raised side's frame in a strong spot, in case it falls off the stand. Better hint is that this is a stupid thing to do, but I got too curious for my own good) The front nose of my differential moves up and down a lot, and in time with the clunk. The strap seems to do nothing to stop this, as it's way too loose. I gotta find a new strap, I guess.

Previous to reading this thread, I had assumed the strap was just there to keep the nose from flopping around like crazy if the mount broke. It sounds like its actually an important part of the mounting system, though.

[g9m3c]

Like mentioned above, go with a Ron Tyler style mount. I built mine myself, and it was pretty easy. Replacing the strap is the only permanent solution to the problem. Here's a few pics of mine.

[Darrel]

Like mentioned above, go with a Ron Tyler style mount. I built mine myself, and it was pretty easy. Replacing the strap is the only permanent solution to the problem. Here's a few pics of mine.

Are you still using the stock mount?

I'm using the stock mount along with one of those round stepped bumpers that you can cut down to allow it to fit between the RT mount and top of the diffy.

The price is very reasonable for the mount and will keep the stock mount from moving much if at all.

[Travel'n Man]

I just purchased the R/T mount - it's due in the week and should have it installed soon. Check out the guys at Hybrid Z.......there are several links dealing with the mount.

[g9m3c]

Are you still using the stock mount?

I'm using the stock mount along with one of those round stepped bumpers that you can cut down to allow it to fit between the RT mount and top of the diffy.

The price is very reasonable for the mount and will keep the stock mount from moving much if at all.

To be honest, I can't remember. I'm pretty sure I took it out because there was no need for it. The Energy Suspension GM trans. mount has an internal interlock feature allowing it to bear compression and tension loads. I think I remember throwing the stock mount out because it was torn in 2 anyway.

[Weasel73240Z]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I was thinking of trying to attach a rubber spacer, maybe a few of the soft plastic spreaders (for doing bodywork), onto the original arrestor strap. I was thinking I could rivet it through the bottom of the strap and that would make up for any stretch.

g9m3c...thats a great looking mount you built. That might be at the top of Winter "to do" list.

[sblake01]

I'm just not convinced on that solid 'strap' deal. The 'give' is built in to it for a reason an if you make it solid that force/stress has to go somewhere.......

[Darrel]

It's not solid. You still use the original rubber mount with an added snubber to reduce the amount the diff will move. There is still movement.

The RT mount does not transmit any vibration or noise inside the cabin. And as noted the strap does stretch allowing too much movement and breaking the mount.

And the RT mount bolts directly in place of the strap and its brackets.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125585&highlight=mount

This is the snubber I used to go over the top.

http://www.suspension.com/9-9101R.jpg

[sblake01]

Okay.