Are you still using the stock mount?

I'm using the stock mount along with one of those round stepped bumpers that you can cut down to allow it to fit between the RT mount and top of the diffy.

The price is very reasonable for the mount and will keep the stock mount from moving much if at all.

I don't know why I didn't realize it before, but the answer to your question was in the pics I posted. I'm no longer using the stock mount.

As far as vibrations making their way into the car, I haven't noticed it at all. What I have noticed is no clunking on acceleration and a firmer feel when shifting gears quickly. I love it.

Turns out Brads (the fabricator from the hybridZ link) shop is only about an hour from my house. Gonna go pick up one of those mounts in the next days or two. Thanks again.

Turns out Brads (the fabricator from the hybridZ link) shop is only about an hour from my house. Gonna go pick up one of those mounts in the next days or two. Thanks again.

Does he have a stock of them still? They usually sell out within a week after he gets a batch done.

The snubber you can get at any auto parts store in the suspension section. They only run about $5 for a package of 2. You cut to fit.

Ron had some as of last week. I just ordered and got shipping confirmation today via email.

Does he have a stock of them still? They usually sell out within a week after he gets a batch done.

The snubber you can get at any auto parts store in the suspension section. They only run about $5 for a package of 2. You cut to fit.

I talked to him yesterday, and he said he had a few around. Not sure how many "a few" are, but I can ask when I go pick mine up tomorrow.

That's cool. As long as you talked to him.

That's cool. As long as you talked to him.

Actually talked to him today, yesterday was email. I'm going to pick one up at his shop tomorrow, I told him a few guys on here are interested, so I'll get a count and let you know what he has.

Just picked up my mount from Brad. Excellent quality, but he only has 2 left. You can get his info on the hybridz link in this thread.

I got my Ron Tyler mount installed last night at my buddy's house while it was on his lift. I also got the e-brake cable replaced with a new one - it took longer to replace the e-brake cable then the Ron Tyler mount. I am waiting on a new speedo gear to come in on Thursday and then I'll fire it up. I'm really excited about changing out all my hoses and master vac to have a nice firm brake pedal and no clunk when changing gears..........

This is the ultimate correction for my differential challange.

This mounts goes into the exact same bolt holes as the Strap (4 bolts) and totally replaces the strap (I have one for sale if anybody needs one) Of course I will NEVER put it back on my car. There is an energy bushing that goes in the top and the unit is mounted into the original holes for the strap - pretty basic (the Datsun strap is mounted to the top of the diff and the Insulator is mounted to the bottom - with the R/T Mount they both are up top - nothing on the bottom). I got this installed (approx 30 min), retorqued all the main components in the rear and this is solid as a rock. There is enough flex for the diff due to the suspension bushing that is designed to be used with it, so it is NOT metal to metal.

Their is absolutly no Clunk or any noise at all other than the tone from my exhaust and the big smile on my face. I was abusing the gear pattern with absolutly zero noise. Shifting was smooth regardless of how hard I was shifting. NO CLUNK AT ALL - AT ANY RPM - AT ANY SPEED - IN ANY GEAR.

Within the past two months I have installed new:

U-Joints Half Shafts (4)

U-Joints Propeller Shaft (2)

Replacment R-180 Diff

Diff Cover Gasket

Diff Mount (I have a used slightly used one for sale)

Diff Mount Bar Insulator

Diff Bar Washer

Diff Seal Front

Diff Seal Side (2)

Ron Tyler Mount

Suspension Techniques GM Transmission Mount

Re-Torque Main Components

This was the complete fix for the my clunk (along with re-torqueing).

There are 2 ways to use the RT mount.

Like you mentioned, use nothing on the bottom and risk ripping the gm mount down from the top.

Or use the stock nissan mount, RT bracket and then a frame snubber cut to fit which will sandwhich the diff between the frame snubber mounted in the RT mount and the stock mount on the crossmember.

Now where's that cat?

There are 2 ways to use the RT mount.

Like you mentioned, use nothing on the bottom and risk ripping the gm mount down from the top.

Or use the stock nissan mount, RT bracket and then a frame snubber cut to fit which will sandwhich the diff between the frame snubber mounted in the RT mount and the stock mount on the crossmember.

Now where's that cat?

The only time you have downforce on the pinion is during decel, and it's nowhere near as much as you have upforce during acceleration. 100% of acceleration torque goes through the pinion. If you're downshifting and using the brakes, what would you figure, maybe 15% of your decel torque comes through the pinion. Not to mention the poly Energy Suspension mount everyone uses is an interlocking style so it can't come apart. The mount on bottom is dead weight IMO.