Since I just finished this, I thought I would take pics and document the install for those doing this in the future. 6 months ago, I had no idea how to do this and ended up on another site to get full details with pics. Now the info will be here for those who need.

First step: Put number 1 cylinder at TDC. The alignment key on the crankshaft will be at 12 O'clock as shown in pic. This assumes that the head is not installed. Never turn crank or cam independant of eachother as this will bend valves or break things.

Step two: On the head, ensure the cam alignment pin is at 12 o'clock as shown in the pic. Install head with gasket (I prefer the gasket well coated with copper gasket spray) and torque per spec.

Edited August 29, 200915 yr by motorman7
no pics

Step 3: Temporarily attach crank sprocket to cam as shown in pic, with sprocket hole 1 over the cam key at 12 O'clock.

Step 4: pick up cam chain and locate the two shiney links. They are 42 links apart. Holding chain vertical with one shiney link at 12 oclock, ensure that 2nd link is on the right hand side. Feed chain through head and insert shiney link on cam sprocket as shown in pick. Remove cam sprocket from cam and set on head as shown.

Step 5: Align 2nd shiney link with mark on crankshaft as shown in pic. This should align fairly easily if the first steps will follow. Make minor adjustments if needed. Next, install the chain tensioner.

Step 6: While pressing in chain tensioner, reinstall cam sprocket with hole one on the cam alignment key. Install cam bolt and torque per spec.

I find it's easier to install the chain and sprocket if you haven't installed the chain tensioner at all. After installing chain and torqueing the chain sprocket, then compress the tensioner boot and install the two bolts and torque the chain tensioner. IMO .........either method will work. Guy

Edited August 11, 201014 yr by Diseazd

To tailgate on what Diseazd said, you can use a zip tie to keep the tensioner together while you are bolting it on. Then just cut it off once everything is in place.

Both great tips. Thanks! I just like doing things the hard way .

after learning the hard way, makes it easier to find easy ways of doing the same thing.

I learn something new (usually from a screw up) every time I build an engine!

Okay guys, I've got a question. . . or two. My engine's running kinda weird. The timing is sporadic and it keeps back firing, etc... After eliminating electrical issues, I decided to pull the valve cover and tug on the timing chain. It's got between a quarter and a half of an inch of play. It's also making a minor knocking sound when I drive it.

Does that sound like the timing chain is bad?

Do I have to pull the engine to change out the chain, gears, and tensioners?

The timing chain always has some slack in it. There's a slack side and a tight side. You need to follow the procedure in the FMS for determining timing chain wear. Put the timing mark on zero and see how the notch in the camshaft sprocket aligns with the groove in the retaining plate. It's outlined in detail, with drawings, in the Engine Mechanical chapter.

The backfiring and weird running could have several causes, from lean mixture to ignition timing. What year car and engine?