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spindle pin lock bolt


yetterben

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hm.... shinning a light down there reveals a perfect slot. tap the pin one way and its not anymore if you get what i am saying. it will go down about half way just enough for the threads to come out the bottom. I cant for the life me get it in any further with bfh or without.

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If I recall, you had the old pins pressed out by the machine shop. Do you, by chance have the old one to compare?

I have yet to do my spindle pins (coming this month) but can you slip out the new one to see how far the lock bolt fits through before bottoming?

it's a tapered hole right? Is the taper facing the right direction?

:beer:

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Don't worry to much about it. If you can get a couple of threads showing that's all you need. The purpose of this bolt to prevent the spindle pin from rotating when tightening the nuts on either end. Once the nuts are snugged the bolt's job is over. Most people try to drive these bolts in way too tight. That only deforms the spindle pin making it's removal far more difficult for bushing replacement down the road.

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It doesn't matter when the car is rolling. The spindle pin is only the fulcrum for the strut housing and LCA. Once it's in place it doesn't move when the lock bolt(pin) is installed. The bushings at either end provide the rotation as the suspension compresses and extends. The spindle pin simply provides the connection between the housing and LCA via the bushes.

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If you tighten the lock bolt too much you will swag the spindle pin requiring it to be pressed out by a machine shop the next time you need to change it.

I don't know what to tell you about the thread engagement. It seems like you ought to be able to pull the lock wedge far enough to fill the nut. However remember that there really isn't any force exerted on the pin to push the lock wedge up in operation. It just keeps the pin from turning when you tighten the nuts on the end.

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