September 4, 200915 yr comment_293774 Oops, your right but you get the idea. You don't have to remove the carbs for adjusting them. Leave them on.as for number 4, make sure it's not activating the throttle. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33050-carburetor-tuning/?&page=2#findComment-293774 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 4, 200915 yr Author comment_293777 too late i took them off but i did discover that my bendable bars was holdin my butterfly open a little bit Now i can idle but balancin is tricky The front carb races the engine rpm up when i put the sychro over it even with the mixure nut all the way up and the rear carb sputters the engine with the sychro on it With adjusting the balance screw and the throttle screw i can get the ball in the same place on both carbs however i get the opposite effect on the engine rpm Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33050-carburetor-tuning/?&page=2#findComment-293777 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 4, 200915 yr comment_293779 Just one more thing. When you lift the vacuum piston in the carb, by reaching in the intake with your finger and lifting the piston up. When you let it go does it drop freely with a clunk when it reaches bottom? If it does not then the needle to nozzle is out of alignment. Or the needle is bent. On a 3 screw, the adjustment for alignment is done by moving the dome one way or another. There is supposed to be cone shaped plastic or epoxy alignment ''pins'' on the body of the carb that fit into the dome and align it. These were done at the time of assembly at the point of manufacture. If these are missing then you will need to align things . On Four screw carbs the nozzles are adjustable. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33050-carburetor-tuning/?&page=2#findComment-293779 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 4, 200915 yr Author comment_293780 yep they are fallin freely with a clunk at the bottomI bought new needles and nozzles from z therapy and installed themlooks to be operating correctly with out binding Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33050-carburetor-tuning/?&page=2#findComment-293780 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 5, 200915 yr Author comment_293869 Alright after a bit of playin/ trial and error, i have my idle at about 900 with good throttle response, I didn't really notice alot of sensitivity from the mixture nuts, I'd turn both of them one way a turn or 2 and then the other and did hear much of a changeIf i changed them vastly i would notice a difference in rpm, so i just went by ear and tried to get closeI set my timing to 17 degrees btdc at around 900 rpm, i think thats set, I still need to reset the valve lashs hot thoughHopefully once i reinstall my clutch fork WITH the holder spring, i'll get to drive her FINALLY after 4 hard months of full time restorationAfter that all i have to do is fix the ELECTRIC, YUCK!Wish me luckFrankie Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33050-carburetor-tuning/?&page=2#findComment-293869 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 6, 200915 yr comment_293877 Take a look at this...it is all there...http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/techtip6.htm Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33050-carburetor-tuning/?&page=2#findComment-293877 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 8, 200915 yr Author comment_294080 Yeah i have followed that pretty step by step, I think most of my problems are just the age of the carbs. Probably my throttle shafts are leakin and my linkages are worn. Im gonna keep workin on them and see if i can get them more finally tuned.Thanks everyone for the inputFrankie Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33050-carburetor-tuning/?&page=2#findComment-294080 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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