Working around the Hazard Switch

[Z Tyler Z]

Well after one mechanic shop telling me he wasn't conformable working on my 76' 280:ermm:. I bought it to anther to finally take care of my turn signal problem.

Currently the hazards work fine but the turn signals don't work at all. I got a call from the new mechanic yesterday. He told me that I have a hazard switch from a 77' Z and that it'll be very hard to get the job done without the proper hazard switch.

The one I have has only green wires with different stripes in them and one black wire. He told me the correct one has a blue wire, which is the power wire to the turn signals. I looked online and can't seem to find any hazard switches for 75-76 280z's. I did find one on Ebay but that looked like it was from a 77.

My question is does anyone know how to wire around the hazard switch to get the turn signals working? Or have any ideas about getting it to work with a 77 hazard switch. I know that the hazard switch is suppose to override the turn signals and that's why they wired it the way they did.

The mechanic shop is closed on weekends but I will take any suggestions straight to them Monday morning. Thanks for all your help so far guys, this forum has saved me from taking my Z to the shop many times. This is the first time I've given up and just rather have the problem taken care of instead of getting frustrated over it.

If you guys need any more information just ask.

[FastWoman]

Is it important to you to have only original parts, even if your hazard flashers aren't functional, or do you want to get your system functional, even if you have to replace the OEM switch and/or connector with a generic one? I'm assuming your '76 is wired similarly to my '78, and I'd be happy to check the '78 factory service manual for you later, when I have a bit more time.

[Z Tyler Z]

Thanks for the reply FastWoman,

Currently I'm trying to "refresh" my Z rather then using only OEM parts. I'm willing to risk the functionality of my hazards to get my turn signals working, I'm just clueless on how to go about that.

As I said I'll probably have the mechanic do the work I just want be able to tell him what needs to be done to bypass the hazards or whatever.

[260zCaliCar]

This may help you, zcarsource has a hazard switch for 74-76 for $36.99.

http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/58318/catid/7797_7818/Hazard_Light_Switch_74_76_used

If you want me to take some pics of mine (1974 which according to zcarsource is the same as yours), I can probably do that tomorrow for you when there is more light.

[EScanlon]

Tyler, before you go removing the Hazard Switch and causing yourself a gazillion more problems, definitely take a look at buying that used switch.

The turn signal circuitry is so basic that the only way to have them work in tandem with the 4 way flashers, is to have the hazard switch IN the circuitry.... that is, the Hazard Switch IS needed.

Trying to remove the switch from the circuitry by jumping wires will prove to be a hideous headache.... and in the long run it would be much easier and less problematic to have simply replaced the switch.

FWIW

E

[FastWoman]

I tend to agree with others that the best fix is to replace the switch. That's a repair you can easily do yourself for less money (for the part) than you would pay the mechanic. However, if you need something to get you by for a while...

I'm looking at my '78 FSM. From what has been said above, there may be differences in the way my '78 and your '76 are wired. However, if the overall logic of the circuit is similar, I note the following:

The switch is the first stop between the turn signal fuse ( one of the IGN circuit fuses in the passenger side fuse box) and the signal lamp system, so one of the wires coming into the switch is going to be +12VDC. When the hazards are not switched on, this contact is closed. When the hazard switch is turned on, this contact is broken, the left and right signal lamps are connected together, and these lamps are powered through a hazard flasher unit off of a different fuse (from the BAT circuit of the passenger side fuse box). With all due respect to EScanlon, who is very knowledgeable about electrical matters, bypassing the switch is simply a matter of recreating the connections the switch would make in the "hazard off" position. In this case (AT LEAST IN A '78 MODEL!!), you'd find the wire that's +12 with the key in the IGN position and dead with the key off (color coded green in my car). Then find the wire that leads to the turn signal flasher unit (color coded green with a yellow stripe in my car). Jumper between the two, and don't connect anything else up. That would do it IN MY 1978 VERSION. As far as I can tell IN MY 1978 VERSION, it would be possible to blow anything up by connecting the wrong two wires, as the closest ground is on the other side of each lamp. You might have lights come on inappropriately, but that would probably be it. I guess it is possible, though, that you could blow one of the two fuses involved in this circuit (either for the turn signal or the hazard) by jumpering the two +12 wires together. That could happen in the ignition off state, where the two fuses would back-feed power from the BAT circuit to the IGN circuit. If one of the fuses doesn't blow, it could cause your engine to keep running even with the ignition key off, and it could eventually drain your battery (because the IGN circuit is never switched off). However, it wouldn't cause permanent damage to anything. Your fuses protect against that. Again, and this is important, THIS IS ALL WITH RESPECT TO 1978 WIRING. THERE MAY BE DIFFERENCES IN THE WIRING OF YOUR 1976.

[EScanlon]

Sarah;

It isn't that it cannot be done... just that in the long run it is unadviseable. Most folks here advise maintaining things as close to "stock" in order to be able to advise folks on how to repair known problems.

Start making changes to save a few $, and before long there are many changes. Soon there are a ton of unknown variables that have crept in and solving a simple problem becomes one that only the owner might remember. If he doesn't remember, down the line without knowing all the prior "fixes", it's hard to offer advise. Which negates the help this forum can offer.

Remember, many of the help threads on this site deal with what an IPO did to "fix" the car. Without knowing ALL of those "fixes", it's a nightmare.

(Right, Fast, Cheap) pick two and consider the consequences.

2¢

Enrique

Edited September 13, 2009 by EScanlon

[260zCaliCar]

I don't know what Tyler has already paid his mechanic, and I don't know what he plans to pay for the additional work. But I'm pretty sure of one thing... It's more than $37. If they have already studied the wires associated with the currently installed switch, then I suspect, the very minor disassembly required to swap out the switch has already been done. By swapping out the switch himself, he will PROPERLY solve his problem, in less time, and for less money. IMHO Enrique is absolutely correct, alternative solutions shouldn't even be considered for this one since a proper repair appears to be an option.

Fastwoman, FYI, with every one of your posts I am increasingly impressed with your knowledge and skill...

[Zs-ondabrain]

Too bad everyone forgets about the "Electrical Guy" who lives less than 15 minutes from Tyler.

Hint Hint

[260zCaliCar]

:stupid: :stupid:

You should run over there and see if our suggestion to replace the switch was the correct one! If its not, I'll be interested to know what you find.

[EScanlon]

No, we didn't forget. You don't need us as enablers.

Do you really need the extra plugs?

E

Edited September 13, 2009 by EScanlon

[Zs-ondabrain]

No, we didn't forget. You don't need us as enablers.

Do you really need the extra plugs?

E

LOL Caught that did ya? Could'nt help myself, but it's not like Tom doesn't ask for it.

I'm almost too busy to put the effort into "Plugs" now-a-days.

Dave.