Working around the Hazard Switch

[FastWoman]

Enrique, I do agree with you. However, sometimes people also get "stuck" and need a temporary fix. Sometimes people need a cheap/free solution to get them as far as their next paycheck. Sometimes the car is a rusty old heap, and the object is simply to get it running and legal for as little money as possible. The fact that Tyler is paying a mechanic to fix it doesn't mean that he can afford a proper fix. It could simply be that he's over his head with anything electrical and has no other choice but to pay an "expert." I know *I* would fix it with a replacement switch, but not everyone fixes things the way I do -- or you do. In the end, all I'm suggesting, if a proper fix isn't feasible or available, is for a jumper to be inserted into the switch connector. Then it's a rather obvious thing to figure out why the hazard light switch doesn't work: It's not plugged in, and there's a jumper plugged into the wiring harness connector. Perhaps an adhesive label applied to the backside of the defunct switch to label it "bad" would also be a good idea.

Anyway, no criticisms, and your 2c is well appreciated. I just know too many people living from paycheck to paycheck to make too many assumptions.

[Z Tyler Z]

Yesterday 08:20 PM

260zCaliCar This may help you, zcarsource has a hazard switch for 74-76 for $36.99.

http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/...tch_74_76_used

If you want me to take some pics of mine (1974 which according to zcarsource is the same as yours), I can probably do that tomorrow for you when there is more light.

Thank you, I guess I didn't search hard enough for a replacement switch. Already ordered it hopefully they get it shipped tomorrow and I can get it to the shop sometime late next week.

Yesterday 08:52 PM

EScanlon Tyler, before you go removing the Hazard Switch and causing yourself a gazillion more problems, definitely take a look at buying that used switch.

The turn signal circuitry is so basic that the only way to have them work in tandem with the 4 way flashers, is to have the hazard switch IN the circuitry.... that is, the Hazard Switch IS needed.

Trying to remove the switch from the circuitry by jumping wires will prove to be a hideous headache.... and in the long run it would be much easier and less problematic to have simply replaced the switch.

FWIW

E

Will do, at the time I originally wrote this I couldn't locate a new hazard switch. I had searched a bit online (clearly not hard enough) and went to the local Z car shop.

Today 07:19 AM

FastWoman I tend to agree with others that the best fix is to replace the switch. That's a repair you can easily do yourself for less money (for the part) than you would pay the mechanic. However, if you need something to get you by for a while...

I'm looking at my '78 FSM. From what has been said above, there may be differences in the way my '78 and your '76 are wired. However, if the overall logic of the circuit is similar, I note the following:

The switch is the first stop between the turn signal fuse ( one of the IGN circuit fuses in the passenger side fuse box) and the signal lamp system, so one of the wires coming into the switch is going to be +12VDC. When the hazards are not switched on, this contact is closed. When the hazard switch is turned on, this contact is broken, the left and right signal lamps are connected together, and these lamps are powered through a hazard flasher unit off of a different fuse (from the BAT circuit of the passenger side fuse box). With all due respect to EScanlon, who is very knowledgeable about electrical matters, bypassing the switch is simply a matter of recreating the connections the switch would make in the "hazard off" position. In this case (AT LEAST IN A '78 MODEL!!), you'd find the wire that's +12 with the key in the IGN position and dead with the key off (color coded green in my car). Then find the wire that leads to the turn signal flasher unit (color coded green with a yellow stripe in my car). Jumper between the two, and don't connect anything else up. That would do it IN MY 1978 VERSION. As far as I can tell IN MY 1978 VERSION, it would be possible to blow anything up by connecting the wrong two wires, as the closest ground is on the other side of each lamp. You might have lights come on inappropriately, but that would probably be it. I guess it is possible, though, that you could blow one of the two fuses involved in this circuit (either for the turn signal or the hazard) by jumpering the two +12 wires together. That could happen in the ignition off state, where the two fuses would back-feed power from the BAT circuit to the IGN circuit. If one of the fuses doesn't blow, it could cause your engine to keep running even with the ignition key off, and it could eventually drain your battery (because the IGN circuit is never switched off). However, it wouldn't cause permanent damage to anything. Your fuses protect against that. Again, and this is important, THIS IS ALL WITH RESPECT TO 1978 WIRING. THERE MAY BE DIFFERENCES IN THE WIRING OF YOUR 1976.

Today 11:28 AM

260zCaliCar

Fastwoman, FYI, with every one of your posts I am increasingly impressed with your knowledge and skill...

+1

I don't know what Tyler has already paid his mechanic, and I don't know what he plans to pay for the additional work.

Luckily the first mechanic who gave up didn't charge me anything and this current mechanic shop should give me a fair deal. (there doing a few other small things, that I didn't want to mess with)

Today 11:37 AM

Zs-ondabrain Too bad everyone forgets about the "Electrical Guy" who lives less than 15 minutes from Tyler.

Hint Hint

I was hoping you'd chime in. I doubt you remember me but we met at the Colby car show earlier this year. I came with a friend early in the day (both of us our in our late teens, wearing sunglasses, I think I wore a black Guinness shirt) and we talked a bit about Z cars a bit, I mentioned how I remember your car from this forum & car domain. You showed us your car then pointed out the Z Hawk a few cars down and told us about the guy up in Arlington trying to sell one of them a while back for a ton despite it just being a painted up 280.

Seeing your car in person was one of the reasons I bought a Z project car . Sadly I found a good deal on a 280z instead of holding out for a 240.

We should meet up sometime when I get my car a little more presentable (aka get the previous owners ugly body kit off and get carpet).

Today 03:35 PM

FastWoman Enrique, I do agree with you. However, sometimes people also get "stuck" and need a temporary fix. Sometimes people need a cheap/free solution to get them as far as their next paycheck. Sometimes the car is a rusty old heap, and the object is simply to get it running and legal for as little money as possible. The fact that Tyler is paying a mechanic to fix it doesn't mean that he can afford a proper fix. It could simply be that he's over his head with anything electrical and has no other choice but to pay an "expert." I know *I* would fix it with a replacement switch, but not everyone fixes things the way I do -- or you do. In the end, all I'm suggesting, if a proper fix isn't feasible or available, is for a jumper to be inserted into the switch connector. Then it's a rather obvious thing to figure out why the hazard light switch doesn't work: It's not plugged in, and there's a jumper plugged into the wiring harness connector. Perhaps an adhesive label applied to the backside of the defunct switch to label it "bad" would also be a good idea.

Anyway, no criticisms, and your 2c is well appreciated. I just know too many people living from paycheck to paycheck to make too many assumptions.

Hopefully this new hazard switch will fix all the problems and I would need to MacGyver temp fix. I forgot to mention that all these wires I'm dealing with are all loose and not connected to those plastic stock A/B connectors.

Thanks for all the input on this thread. I'll rebump it with a follow up post as soon as I get the ball rolling with the new hazard switch.

[Zs-ondabrain]

check your Private Messages

[FastWoman]

Tyler, check out the following source for Japanese OEM-style connectors:

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

When you get your switch, try to find a mating connector there. Meanwhile, if you must drive your car, wrap up any dangling bare wire bits SEPARATELY with electrical tape. If you can leave your car where it is, pull the cable off of the negative battery post, until you can get your loose wires under control.

I understand you can download a factory service manual for free on the Internet. Others here may be able to point you to a useful link. You can also order a used paper one from Amazon or Ebay, as I did. The FSM will show you which wires go in which connector positions. If your FSM is like mine, you'll have two different wiring diagrams that sort of intermingle -- one for the emergency flashers and one for the turn signals.

Good luck!

PS Nothin' wrong with a 280! It's a different sort of car. A 240 is a better car for racing, weekend driving, and for fixing up for sale. A 280 is better as a daily driver, IMO, provided the fuel injection is in good shape. It's more comfortable and reliable, and you won't cry quite so much if someone leaves a huge ding in your door. It all depends on what you're into.

[Pikngrn]

I appreciate your valuable input on this site, and I need help with wiring up my hazard lights to an independent switch.

It is not for a Z car, it is for a 1988 Japanese made RHD Toyota Crown and a lot of parts are interchangeable with Supras & Cressidas, but not this one.

My hazard switch is no longer available, and unrepairable, and there are no used ones to be found. (Believe me, I have searched every country for the past year) The lights work fine, but the switch is burned up and can’t keep them on long at all . I am a mail carrier and I use them a lot. I also work everyday & it’s impossible to go without my car. 

I would like to wire my hazard lights to another switch , perhaps a toggle switch, nothing fancy in the dash, just an in-line switch will work to get me through, but I can’t find any basics on how. You have the most current chatter on the subject, so I hoped you could point me in the right direction?