920 Gold

[JohnnyO]

The decision to use single stage paint vs. basecoat/clearcoat may also depend on how you intend to use your car. Rock chips/dents/dings will be easier to touch up with a single stage paint. So, single stage may be better for a car that will be driven a lot.

Good point but how many in/out body shops know single stage paint these days. I would imagine that every new vehicle made today is base/clear.

[TVollnogle]

John,

I built the rotisserie. It was more than sufficient for a body of this weight. I even bolted the entire undercarriage on the body before taking it off of the rotisserie a month or so ago. Wheels came from Harbor Freight. I'll attach some pics.

If you're interested, I can get measurements for you.

Terry

[JohnnyO]

Terry,

I would like measurements. That looks like one of the simplest designs I have seen. It looks like 2 engine stands that have been modified fo hold a Z.

By the way, I am in awe of your Z. I am hoping to be where you are now by next spring. Started last November.

John

[theramz]

I think that maybe the original colors were affected by the color of the primer. I would use a very light gray or even white for the gold. Even the correct mix would surely be different over medium gray especially in a single stage. jmo

[TVollnogle]

Theramz, you're right about the primer color affecting the final color. When we did sample boards we used the same primer. I'll have to check with my painter, but I think it was light gray.

John, I'll get the dimensions for you. My nephew has the rotisserie down in SC now but I'll either call him or measure it when I'm there in a couple weeks. My car is moving along quickly now. I just took an early out from work so am "retired" and can dedicate more time to it. Just dropped the engine back in yesterday. I started tearing down my car over 4 years ago, but didn't touch it for over 2 years due to work schedule, etc. Just got back on it last November.

Terry

[theramz]

I don't think the early paints were as effected by primer. My car is bue and the primer is red oxide. Maybe you could have a white primer tinted to make it really "pop". Your engine bay detail is over he top beautiful!!

I would also like to have the plans for your rotisserie.

Tom

[Rich1]

John..

I am finding the same issues matching my orange Z. The car is at the body shop now. It looks like we may be using the tool lid to match the color--as the exterior is not actually 918.

The outside of my Z was repainted orange in 1984--and I had always assumed it was a close match to the original color. It wasn't until I removed the quarter windows--and found the original paint beneath them--that I realized that the '84 paint job was quite a bit off!

What difference does a 2 stage (base/clear) have on the final appearance? Does the clear make the color deeper? Is there more shine? Or is the clear merely a protective coating?

Edited September 18, 2009 by Rich1

[five&dime]

More shine and depth to base/clear jobs. You can also get a better finish if you lay more coats of clear on then wetsand all orangepeel out. Nothing better than a quality paintjob that has been fully wetsanded and buffed out IMO.

This thread has made my decision to dimantle my car this winter and build the rotisere. I also plan on doing the bedliner undercoating in the same color.

I just need to decide whether to stick with the orange or go with my other favorite "cactus green"............

Edited September 18, 2009 by five&dime

[theramz]

Matching an original color is next to impossible without an expert eye and a perfect sample. Paint changes hue with age no matter where it is. A 2 stage is the best but your stuck with the end result unless you sand it all off. I was at Hot August Nights and looked at no less than 1000 cars. I saw some very expensive paint jobs with flaws resulting from poor prep work. Paint flaking off in corners etc. You have one shot at it so spend the time on the prep.

Eastwood has a forum to help with all that stuff. I go to the auotmotive paint store for help and I'm sure your town has one with a guy that knows all about it.

[kenz240z]

A quick point about color variations - the lighting will make a difference when comparing colors. Avoid comparing the color chips from the paint supplier's book to your sample while standing inside at the counter under the flourescent lights. For best results, do your color comparisons outside in the sunlight. Take a look at the two photos of my orange '73. The paint almost looks red under the flourescent lights in the garage.

The primer can affect the color, so it's best to use a light primer with light color paints. Keep in mind that most paint systems allow you to tint the primer with the base color so that fewer color coats will be required for a basecoat/clearcoat paint job. With a bc/cc paint job you only need to spray enough color coat to achieve a uniform appearance. The clear coat seals it, adds depth & shine and provides a durable finish. You could tint the primer if you are using a single stage paint, although you need to apply enough coats to achieve a uniform color and a durable finish. Too thin could cause problems down the road.

I agree with five&dime, there is nothing better than a bc/cc paint job that has been wet sanded perfectly smooth & buffed to a super high gloss. For those pursing a stock appearance this would be over-restoration on a Z car, considering the cars did not come from the factory with show quality paint.

I've had no problem getting single stage paint from my local PPG supplier. And I've had very good luck with the PPG Omni value line of paints. The key, as theramz pointed out, is in the prep work. Expensive paint will be wasted on a car that has had poor body work and poor prep work. Don't paint your car black unless it is PERFECTLY straight or every ding, wave and ripple will stand out like a sore thumb. Lighter colors are more forgiving about the imperfections.

I did my first Z in an orange basecoat/clearcoat, including the engine bay. I'm working on another Z that I plan to use bc/cc on the body exterior and will use a single stage in the same color for wheel wells, door/hatch jams, interior, underside of hood and engine compartment. I've already sprayed the interior and wheel wells. I've got a little body work to do before I can spray the body...

[JohnnyO]

Theramz, you're right about the primer color affecting the final color. When we did sample boards we used the same primer. I'll have to check with my painter, but I think it was light gray.

John, I'll get the dimensions for you. My nephew has the rotisserie down in SC now but I'll either call him or measure it when I'm there in a couple weeks.

Terry

The primer that I stripped was light grey on top of red oxide. I am going to get a quart of your formula and paint the inside with it. I will start with the floor boards and tranny tunnel. I have some very nice paint examples that were under the vinyl on the strut towers. This paint appears to be the color I am expecting so I hope it hasn't faded or darkened alot.

The dimensions would be great. Not too big of a rush, I won't be working on the floor pan supports and under carraige for a little while.

Thanks for the help.

John

[bpilati]

John,

I built the rotisserie. It was more than sufficient for a body of this weight. I even bolted the entire undercarriage on the body before taking it off of the rotisserie a month or so ago. Wheels came from Harbor Freight. I'll attach some pics.

If you're interested, I can get measurements for you.

Terry

That's truly first class, and far exceeds what I'm doing.