Floor support rails

[JohnnyO]

Has anybody purchased Charlies (zedd findings) Floor support rails? Can you give me a review of them? He says that they are replicas of the originals. My idea of a replica is that it is undetectable from the original. Would that be accurate?

Thanks,

John

[JohnnyO]

Anybody have information about the fitment and design of Zedd Findings floor support rails?

John

[gnosez]

I have his rails and floors in my 240Z and they are the best solution on the market. The rails are also very close to OEM rails.

That said I have a set of my own rails over his as I ended up doubling the hp/torque and needed the extra re-enforcement (www.baddogparts.com).

For a stock S30, Charlie's parts should be your first and only choice.

[JohnnyO]

I appreciate the honesty. I did look at yours and compared them to my existing rails and could tell that they go all the way back and was looking for something closer to stock.

I am only replacing the rails. It seems a garage monkey put the lift on the floor support rails and raised (or tried to) the car. This bent the rails and pushed the original, unrusted pans up about 1" on the drivers side and about 1.5" on the passenger side. There are no creases in the pans so I am pretty sure that once I remove the existing rails they will just "pop" out.

Thanks for the input and wish me luck.

[Arne]

Please post back how your floor-flattening turns out. My passenger side has that problem as well.

[JohnnyO]

Please post back how your floor-flattening turns out. My passenger side has that problem as well.

I will post back when done. Might be a little while though. I am going to order the supports tomorrow which means they won't ship till Monday at the earliest. I need to acquire some tall stands so I can get under there while I am waiting for a rotisserie. I am hoping that they come off easily. Looks like a bunch of spot welds and a few beads to grind off.

John

[JohnnyO]

After looking at the pictures of Charlies rails it appears that they are only partial. I would like to replace them all the way up to the frame rails. All that I have found online is partial replacements. They seem to stop just before the support flares.

Anybody have any luck finding full floor support rails?

John

[madkaw]

Johnny O,

did you ever figure what you are going to do on the floor supports? I am replacing a customers floor pans and rails now and I am kind of disappointed with the amount of material on the replacement panels. The floor pans are too short up front, but seem to fit fairly nice. The floor support would have been better if they were about 6" inches longer to reach all the way under the tension rod boxes(I think that's what you are refering to as far as NOT long enough). I still need to measure and compare to my unmolested Z, but I going to see if I can't get away with sliding the pan supports forward enough to replace the bottom of the tension boxes. Does that make sense-sorry no pics at the moment.

[JohnnyO]

Johnny O,

did you ever figure what you are going to do on the floor supports? I am replacing a customers floor pans and rails now and I am kind of disappointed with the amount of material on the replacement panels. The floor pans are too short up front, but seem to fit fairly nice. The floor support would have been better if they were about 6" inches longer to reach all the way under the tension rod boxes(I think that's what you are refering to as far as NOT long enough). I still need to measure and compare to my unmolested Z, but I going to see if I can't get away with sliding the pan supports forward enough to replace the bottom of the tension boxes. Does that make sense-sorry no pics at the moment.

Makes total sense. I had my welder drill the spot welds out then he cut the old supports off just in behind the firewall. At this point he wanted to cut the new supports to to a point so he could "slip it inside" the front part (tension rod boxes). Then he would weld them in and grind them down. I said no. I had him measure, cut and butt weld them in place. Not perfect but it looks pretty nice. If I decide to put Line-X on it you wouldn't know it ever had work done.

The floor pans themselves did take some effort to get back to flat and they are not perfect. A little wavy is the best way to describe it. He hammered and dollied it but with the stamped creases in the floor pans it was pretty hard to get perfect. I suppose I could have replaced the pans for a few hundred more at this point but I liked the idea of having the original rust free pans in there.

My guy is finishing the jamming on the car this week and I will hopefully be taking it home before christmas for reassembly. I will jack it up and get some pictures when I get it home.

I know this is getting to you a little late. For some reason I am not recieving my subscribed email alerts. Must look into that now.

John

[mally002]

These are not the greatest pictures but I purchased Charlies floor pans and rails, not really sure what you mean by only partial. Keep in mind I paid my shop to install mine, but I don't remember them saying they were not long enough.

Just to help me, tell me what to look for on the rails. I want to make sure mine were done as close to factory as possible.

[JohnnyO]

These are not the greatest pictures but I purchased Charlies floor pans and rails, not really sure what you mean by only partial. Keep in mind I paid my shop to install mine, but I don't remember them saying they were not long enough.

Just to help me, tell me what to look for on the rails. I want to make sure mine were done as close to factory as possible.

I think you misunderstood something in the posts. Charlie's rails were more than long enough. I am pretty sure there is at least 6 extra inches on them so you can cut to fit.

They do not include the very front part of the rail that is shaped like a triangle under your brake booster. This is not attached to the floor pan it is attached to the firewall and front frame rails.

Your rails look good.

John

Edited December 18, 2009 by JohnnyO

[madkaw]

Well it worked out better then I thought. Though Charlies floor pans are short on material up front, the rails are extra long. I moved the rail forward probably 2 inches from the stock, maybe not even that much. I was able to remove most of the damaged area under the tension box and I believe it will look very stock when it's done. As you can see the rail is about perfect width for the tension box except for the aft part of the box-you have to spread that out a little. This is on a customers car.

On my car I actually had the same situation where I had rust free floors but a bent rail. I actually cut a hole in the floor pan right over the damaged area of the rail and then beat it back in place and then touched up some of the welds.