Well I am over the top excited to be getting a set of 4 screw SU's done by Ztherapy! I kept my current set of carbs on the car as to have a good set to baseline all my readings, then I can get the new SU's on start tuning.

I know the quality of the products put out by ZT, I am looking forward to getting them on, but any advice and things I should do first. Also any helpful advice on pitfalls in removing the intake?

Thanks!

Signed one excited Z car owner.

I'll be interested in hearing other peoples tips and tricks for this also, I have a set of carbs/intake manifold out getting polished and look forward to putting them on. It look really straight forward unless a stud breaks...

Also any helpful advice on pitfalls in removing the intake?

You're planning on removing the entire intake manifold and not just the carbs?

yup, I sent the intake and balance tube off to be polished and smoothed as well. THe whole kit and kaboodle is getting the treatment.

If the manifold is already off, you've already been through the toughest IMO. The exhaust bolts, and intake/exhaust studs are the main things I was worried about. I let the penetrating oil soak in a while before I tried cracking anything loose. I bought the stud kit from MSA. Studs for the intake manifold made installation much easier.

My '73 had coolant through the manifold so I used a 1/2" pipe plug in the thermostat housing and a plug on the T before the cooling line is routed behind the head (passenger side)

I don't know if this made a difference but I didn't tighten the balance tube completely when I re installed the manifold. My thinking was that the manifolds would install flat against the head

Edited September 19, 200915 yr by 70 Cam Guy

My main suggestion is do not use a "header" gasket. The paper ones suck. Use a Nissan or other foil and graphite manifold gasket.

For the other guy, use a long extension with a U-joint and socket. You'll have to get in some fairly uncomfortable positions and there will likely be a little pain along with stuffing your hands in tight spaces. It's not that big a deal though.

Hi Jon, have you had bad experience with the MSA intake/exhaust gasket? If I understand you, you're referring to a paper style like you might see from Mr Gasket

just as a quick side note, I finally bought my Energy poly bushings so everything is in place to do the coil overs... just need time. I'll send you a picture when I do finally install everything.

As far as the u-joint and socket, I agree. I believe it was the 2nd or 3rd cylinder that has a stud that is impossible to reach with a normal socket. It was even a pain with a shallow universal. Getting the stock manifold unstuck from the head took some convincing with a pry bar. Just take your time.

If you're referring to the POS gasket that comes with their 6-1 header, yes I had problems with it. I actually bought the header from Arizona Z Car, but it's the same header, and yeah, I drove the car once and it cracked. Never had any trouble with a graphite gasket.

Where would one source this uber Graphite gasket. I know the exact ones your talking about. Would Felpro make one.

I've had good luck with the three-piece Hooker gasket set. They aren't paper, but are more normal laminated gaskets. Only for square port heads.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-10852HKR/

Info from Hooker's site:

This OEM quality gasket is constructed of a thick (.070") laminated, graphite impregnated substrate. The substrate combined with a perforated aluminum core provides superior grip and adhesion.

http://www.holley.com/10852HKR.asp

If you're referring to the POS gasket that comes with their 6-1 header, yes I had problems with it. I actually bought the header from Arizona Z Car, but it's the same header, and yeah, I drove the car once and it cracked. Never had any trouble with a graphite gasket.

I should have taken a picture of mine. The msa gaskets I used on my car were not a simple paper gasket, more like a sandwhich of paper and foil in the middle. I doubled them up, gluing them together with copper RTV, then glued the header to the gasket. Got everything mounted, then snug, then I torqued in stages. I let the rtv dry a good half hour before doing the last torquing.

My header leak is fixed, with the header simply resting on the studs, the 2nd primary was too low to seal so with a little tweaking of that primary and keeping the header lifted, everything sealed. Keep in mind this is a who-knows-how-old Clifford header and one of the previous owners cut the flange between the primaries.

Arne, great link!

Carbs shipped today. Looking forward to this VERY much.