yup, got it at Advanced auto parts. Its just look like a hose with a domed closed end on it.

I will try to see if I kept the package. If not, It would be my pleasure to shoot a close up pic of it for you sir.

Thanks for all the excellent advice on the high rpm issue. I'll try them this weekend and report my findings.

Disconnect the choke cables - push the chokes completely off by hand - to make sure the cables aren't holding the chokes on.

FWIW,

Carl B.

This has my vote for the most likely problem. I personally fought with the choke cable setting over and over until I got it right. If the choke is partially engaged you can't actually set the mixture, and it will idle fast.

A vacuum leak makes fuel injected cars idle fast, but I am not sure what would happen with SUs. My bet is that it would just run lean, or not at all.

UPDATE:

Found an OEM choke cable assembly on Ebay, and managed to win it for a reasonable sum, and the kind folks at ZT said they would be happy to send me new fuel lines. I cannot stress enough how fantastic it is to deal with people who care about their customers and strive to give them a good product and service.

When I was still getting my car running on the round tops, I propped up my center console and pulled the choke cable completely out of the sheath. Once out, I cleaned it thoroughly and applied some light grease I have for door strikers and hinges. I fed it in the sheath and back out again. I wiped the cable with a shop towel and repeated the the process until the amount of black particles left on the towel was negligible. Once clean, I applied a small amount of grease to the cable and put everything back together. It made a world of difference.

I may try to restore my stock cable for a spare using just that technique. For now I just use this NOS cable. It will be fun to try to fix the old one though!

7T1240Z, here is your picture of the block off hose... sorry, but I must have thrown the package away... it was at advance auto parts, and it was in the radiator cap section

I may try to restore my stock cable for a spare using just that technique. For now I just use this NOS cable. It will be fun to try to fix the old one though!

7T1240Z, here is your picture of the block off hose... sorry, but I must have thrown the package away... it was at advance auto parts, and it was in the radiator cap section

That's the exact cap that I have on mine. I bought the cap in a pack with other caps of various sizes from a local auto part shop (Kragen Auto). I believe you can get them through any auto parts stores.

7T1240Z, here is your picture of the block off hose... sorry, but I must have thrown the package away... it was at advance auto parts, and it was in the radiator cap section

Stephen, thanks for this info.

Gary S.

I just won a nice set of 72 carbs on eBay as spares. Plan to send my current carbs to Z Therapy to get them reworked in the next few months. My forward carb is just developing a bit of throttle shaft play.

UPDATE:

Ztherapy was amazingly fast in getting my new fuel lines back to me. Great service. IF you recall, I had a leak on the bottom of the fuel bowls on both carbs. Or so I thought. I installed the first line no problem and sure enough the line was slit letting fuel just pour out. When I went to install the second line, I noticed the fuel nipple coming out of the bottom of the bowl was bent 30 degrees to one side. The fuel line was fine, but the boss was cracked right where the brass nipple goes into the bowl. I have NO idea what I am going to do now.

This was obviously handled VERY poorly by the shipping company. Looks like it may have been dropped directly on that nipple. I imagine that these are pressed in. I am thinking I may have to pull the carb off and send it back to ZT. Bad setback.

That sucks. You can probably just remove the fuel bowl and send that back to ZT rather than taking the carb off.

Did you catch up with Steve via the phone? He is very responsive to customer issues as infrequently as they arise. 503-365-8583 will get him at the shop.