Ignition and door lock kit - same key

[degofedal]

Hi

I've been lurking around the forums for a couple of years and finally got my first 240z about two weeks ago. It's a '73 240z 5-speed manual.

The car came with several keys but only one that will both start the car and unlock the driverside door (won't unlock passenger side). The keys are showing significant wear and on top of that i have a separate key for the gas lid and a separate key for the hatch.

So i wan't to get new parts that use the same key. My problem is that i can't find a kit that uses the same key for both the door lock and the ignition assembly so i was wondering if anybody know of any kits?

Thank you so much in advance and have a nice weekend

degofedal

[Oiluj]

It usually costs between $50 to $100 to re-key the locks, assuming they are not too worn.

[degofedal]

I'm guessing you are suggesting getting new keys made from the original keys. My problem is that i have one key that starts the car and unlocks the driver side - not the passenger side. So basing new keys on the exiting ones i have would not produce a different situation.

[zbane]

A locksmith will be able to reset the actual lock/tumbler mechanism to work with one key, unless the groove/guide line on the keys are different.

[EScanlon]

IF, and that can be a big IF, the Key Code data is still on the inside of the glove box lid, take that to a locksmith and have him cut new keys.

If not, remove the Ignition lock, it's not too hard, take it to the locksmith and have him "read" the lock.

One member here, Unkle, is a locksmith. PM him if he doesn't chime in, but I'll bet he concurs or has a better suggestion.

FWIW

E

Edit Addendum:

Your locks may be so worn that they're admitting keys that should NOT technically work on the car. If that is the case you may end up having to replace the locks. Don't forget to change them to the key code on the glove box, or erase the glove box data.

Edited September 19, 2009 by EScanlon

[degofedal]

Thanks for the great info - you learn everyday I have a locksmith here in my town - i'm gonna give him a call and see if he can help me. Thanks again

[EScanlon]

I neglected to mention that you might want to have him "read" your key and compare it to the data on the Key Code sticker.

If they're NOT the same, there is a good possibility that your lock(s) have been changed in the past.

E

[degofedal]

I neglected to mention that you might want to have him "read" your key and compare it to the data on the Key Code sticker.

If they're NOT the same, there is a good possibility that your lock(s) have been changed in the past.

E

Ok, thanks a lot - i'll do that

[FastWoman]

Just a suggestion: As long as you're taking off the ignition lock, have the locksmith replace the cylinder in it. I recently did this. I think the new cylinder was $30. With time, the cylinders get so worn that you can start the car with your house key, a screwdriver, or even a popsicle stick. Seriously. Door locks get pretty worn too. There are some very affordable reproductions on Ebay.

I had a similar lock situation to yours and went with all new locks, which I had re-keyed. The ignition cylinder and door locks were Taiwanese. They seemed quite OK, but the door locks needed a bit of WD-40 to lube them. The hatch lock was genuine Datsun. Total cost was a bit over $200, with re-keying. Half of that cost was the price of the hatch lock! Note that there are two styles of keyways. Be sure you get all the same.

[bob m]

I have a 72z and the ign key/ lock was worn out. I had an ignition key and a door key. I went to several locksmiths who said they could not fix the locks. Finally, one was able to rework the locks and replace the ignition switch per earlier suggestion and they all work perfectly with one key. Don't give up if one lock smith can not do the job.

Bob M

[woytovich]

How can I remove the ignition cylinder? I'm in as far as having the switch off the back but I don't know how to get the cylinder out!

Mark

[EScanlon]

Mark;

The whole lock needs to come off the steering column and then the locksmith can replace the cylinder.

Look on the left side of the bracket that holds the ignition lock assembly, you may have to remove the combination switch halves to get good access to it. You should see a total of 4 (four) round head items that look like rivets. They aren't, they're screws with twist-off heads. (This presumes they have not been removed/molested since installation at the factory.)

If they are truly unmolested, you'll need to either cut a notch in them to use a straight edge screwdriver, or using a pin punch and punching on the side of the screw head, rotate the screw counter-clockwise until you can grip it with a pair of pliers. A Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel comes in very handy if you're trying to notch the remaining screw head.

Once you've removed all four screws, the ignition lock assembly will come off the steering column.

After you have had it serviced/repaired at the locksmith, just use plain old screws to attach. The twist-off screws originally were a security device to prevent the lock mechanism from being removed from the steering column.

FWIW

E