So after being forced to park my Z outside for a good portion of this past year (long story) I realized the weather has not been kind to my car. Aside from surface rust getting worse by the day, I've also discovered yesterday my frame rails are rotted out pretty well. After crying for a little white, i've decided I should start looking at my options for getting this fixed before my car snaps in half. One solution I've found as Bad Dog parts. Anyone used these before? They look like quality parts, but I'd like to know how the transaction was, and what the craftsmanship is like. I'm really open to any suggestions.

I've heard Bad Dog is good and I have also purchased pans and supports from Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings. Check him out and as I have heard a lot of people think highly of his products.

I've bought parts from Bad Dog in the past, but not frame rails. The owner is a member here, and he was great to deal with.

I bought a frame rail from Bad Dog last year, great guy, great product, very happy with it.

Sorry to hear about your discovery.

I had to replace one frame rail and got the part from MSA. It took a while to get it but it was nice to have an original part. Might as well have the engine bay sandblasted and painted while you have everything out. You may also discover the need to replace your floor pans once the rails are off.

Replacing them is really basic but time consuming. After I did mine I was able to do another members pan replacement (both sides) in a single weekend. (Three of us working)

The bad dog part is only a partial from what I can see. Are you SURE that you don't need the whole thing? My entire rail was toast due to a battery incident years earlier.

2c

Edited September 20, 200915 yr by JimmyZ

As much as getting parts from MSA would be great, I simply can't afford them right now. I've barely got enough $$ to put gas in the car much less spend $400 on rails at the moment. If the Bad Dog rails are quality for under $200 then I can't see why not. Thanks for the input guys. What all tools would you say are necessary for replacement? Angle grinder, welder, etc?

Just be sure. Bad dog rails are partial. I've no problem with them if that's all U need. They look nice. When I took my rail off I found rust along the entire length. The stuff up front wasn't too bad but I felt better that I was replacing the whole thing. The thing I'm concerned with is the area where your T/C rod mounts.

All you need is...

MIG welder w/.023 wire and Ar/Co2 shielding gas

Cut off wheel either air or 4.5" grinder

4.5" grinder with grinding wheel

Spot weld drill bit or just drill thru and fill hloes with weld (easy 'nuf)

Weldable primer for use in areas prepped for plug weld w/ MIG

Sandblast equipment.. A small siphon style gun should do for this small job.

Paint and undercoat for finish.

You might find that some of your metal has rusted/thinned so much that you need to replace it. The third picture shows that the battery tray and firewall needed patching. I ground the welds flush using the cut off wheel since it had fine control. Use eye protction!

Edited September 21, 200915 yr by JimmyZ

Hmm, on his "Products" page the 280Z frame rails look to be complete to me. Do my eyes fool me? I guess its hard to tell without some size reference, but they look pretty long I think.

Sorry for your loss. If you need any help (moral support), email or call, I'm only a half hour away. Cousin David has a 77 that needs a new home, if parts are needed.

Bonzi Lon

Hey,

I used Charlie Osbornes frame rails, floors and floor supports. Apparently they are the ones MSA sells. Give him a call for a price quote it might be within your budget.

Hmm, on his "Products" page the 280Z frame rails look to be complete to me. Do my eyes fool me? I guess its hard to tell without some size reference, but they look pretty long I think.

It's not the full length frame rail... Just the rear section which is aft of the T/C rod. From what I read off Bad dogs site they slip over your existing rear rail and are then welded on. It's a very nice band aid to get you through for a while. They should be pretty cheap to have installed at a body shop.

In my last post the first picture shows a full rail (black). Notice the front section from where the T/C rod and engine/suspension crossmember mount. You don't want to have the front of the rail crumble. Mine was so thin it was actually tearing.

It's quite possible that the rear section of the rail is all you need. I haven't seen any pictures of your rail. If the rail is bad then how are your pans doing? That's a concern.

Heres a picture of the front section of a frame rail...

It's a BIG undertaking for someone at home to replace a full rail. It can be done but takes time. The partial could be done in a short afternoon at home if you have the tools.

Edited September 22, 200915 yr by JimmyZ

Hrudu:

IIRC, you used to live in Hawaii. And you had the same car there. Am I mistaken?

If so, I'll lay odds that your "rotted out pretty well", ends up being "Oh Sheet, look how far the rust is!!

Check just how far the repairs need to go, then decide whether or not this is something you're going to tackle right away and HAVE the $ or if not what your plan "b" is.

If you do not have the $ available, you may want to hold off ... for now. Unless you have the $ to effect a proper repair you might open her up and discover that.... you can't put her back into service for a while. That may cause all sorts of problems and $ down the road.

Jimmy has experience with cars rusting due to the ocean beach's atmosphere, and with you having lived in Hawaii.... I'd check that complete rail out thoroughly.

FWIW

E