Simple Camber Adjustment

[VitaminZ]

I have not posted before but I must say I have read alot.

I am hoping to reduce my bump steer in my 72 SBC.

I will be installing the Arizona Z front end components tonight. (LCA, TC Rod, Spring)

My struts have a new gas spring, just a standard non adjsutable set-up.

I hope to raise the car up, my front crossmember is currently 2-3/4" off level ground.

Currenly my camber is FL -2.9, FR -0.1. and I am using the e-centric adjuster on LCA pivot. I cannot get any more posative camber than this.

Does anyone know? If the Arizona Aluminum LCA will allow me to gain more posative camber. Remember I will have to remove the eccentric LCA bushing and will lose that adjustment.

The car is rust free and very straight so I don't know why the alignment is so far out.

Any comments are wlecome.

[five&dime]

have you looked into bump steer spacers to reduce the problem?

http://www.ground-control.com/gcnisscat.htm

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4186

[jmortensen]

What are you referring to as "bump steer"? Bump steer is toe change as the suspension goes through its travel. Bump steer spacers don't really get rid of it. If you want some options for bump steer you can read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103886

As far as the camber goes it sounds like maybe something is bent up front. I would suggest loosening up the front crossmember and seeing if you can shift it to the right at all. I don't think you'll get enough movement to even up the front end, but you might get it a little bit closer.

You can change camber with the AZC control arms, but you need to be CAREFUL with the tie rods. When you make the control arm longer you need to make the tie rod on that side longer to keep the tires pointing straight. There is a limit to how far out you can screw the tie rod and still be safe. The general rule of thumb is 1.5x the thread diameter needs to be inside the tie rod. In this case the thread diameter is 14mm, so you want 21mm of threads inside the tie rod. If you're not sure how much is in there, take the tie rod off, measure how much there is to the nut, and then you can use the nut as a reference point when you adjust the control arm so that you don't screw the tie rod out too far. A camber plate offers more adjustment (safely) than either the control arm or the eccentric bushing.

[VitaminZ]

thanks for the tip on the front cross member. I will see if can move right.

I'm hoping that the new Arizona springs will help get rid of the sag and maybe add some posative camber.

The camber is my first challenge.

I am afraid to do too much at once. I will check the angle with a quick spring swap. If it looks better I will install the new AZ control arm and then MAYBE slot the strut tower.

I may option to remove the cross member and drill a new hole for the LCA pivot to help with the bump steer.

I'm not sure what springs are in the car but it is defintely lower than stock.

I have new wheels and tires and I want to drive.

[VitaminZ]

I'm still trying to figure out how to setup my profile.

Anyway. I am ready to install my AZC billet aluminum control arms.

I have noticed there is change in the size of the inner control arm mounting hardware.

Is there a recomended way to open up the hole in the crossmember. I want to do this in the car and of course there is the steering rack on the front side.

The aluminum spacers on the bolt of the AZC LCA inner pivot seams quite thin wall.

I want to be sure to get a good clean straight hole.

Your video was cool, you were driving hard.

Can you can point me in the right direction or to a good link.

[jmortensen]

You should be able to just drill the hole out. If the spacers are that bad, you might replace them with bumpsteer spacers out of a circle track catalog or rod end spacers like this:

http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=6647

and this:

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Standard-Spacers_c_85.html

I'm guessing it was my video you saw. Thanks! The car should be MUUUUUUCH faster next time around, but who knows when I'll actually get to drive it again.

Edited September 28, 2009 by jmortensen

[VITAMIN Z]

Hi there Bill, I just noticed our names are the same, I guess we both had the same idea

[VitaminZ]

I dont have a vanity plate so I guess you win.

I have removed all my front suspension components. The crossmember is still in the car. I'm fixin to install the AZC aluminum control arm.

Nice surprise the hole has already been relocated. I just have to open it up to clear the new 5/8" hardware.

I was going to try and open up the hole with the stearing rack still attached on the front of the cross member. BUT I cannot find a 5/8" drill bit to fit my 3/8" chuck on my right angle drill.

How difficult is it to move the rack. Do I just remove the poly bushing and push up. OR do I have to undo a U-joint somewhere.

There is a SBC harmonic balancer about 3/4" above the rack.

Has anyone drilled the crossmember in the car. Any suggestions?

[zKars]

When I did mine I was able to find a 5/8 bit with a step down shank that allowed it to fit in my 3/8 drill.

Another great hole enlarging tool is called a Step Bit, like these:

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100146

Cheap ones can be found at Harbour freight and the like.

They tend to be very aggressive so be careful not to go beyond the 5/8 step!

Good luck.

Jim