E-tek RACING '71 Parts Car Resto

[bartsscooterservice]

I don't know what stuff I will ask. I do have great experience with Bison Polymax...

Did a few spoilers with that in the past, and it's rock solid, they never came off, and I could even hang on it with full force.

[Patcon]

3m makes a lot of body shop epoxies many of the late model cars are actually assembled with some panel epoxies. That would probably work to patch a sunroof especially if you flanged the new panel with a flanging tool. It would require less filler that way. I don't know about longevity though. But there would be no heat, sparks, warpage or possible fire and would be easier for the do it yourselfer.

Charles

[e-tek]

Ed,

I enjoyed the latest photos and really admire your body working skills! I'll need a new pair of fenders and have considered finding a used pair that need minor work. However, I haven't seen any good fenders for sale in my area and think it may be best to just spring for a new pair from Nissan. Did you have any issues ordering the fender from your local Nissan dealer? Did they charge you shipping on the fender? Also, about how long did it take to get in?

Thanks,

Robert S.

It was as easy as a couple phone calls.... Just be sure to get the "Euro-Spec" one. The parts (girl...) forst told me it'd be $1100.00 but I was told by a member here (240dkw) he bought one for about $200, so I called his dealership in Calgary, AB and got the right price ($240CDN) and part number. Called back to my dealer in Saskatoon, SK and then they got it right: $240 overnighted from AB, no shipping. It's only wrapped in a thin foam packing but it was perfect.

[e-tek]

Hi E-tek,

I'm also planning of getting rid of the sunroof, a bodyshop told me that there's no welding required, the will cut a metal plate to the shape with a little overlap and use some kind of superglue, it's the same strength they claim as welding. It's glued underneath from the inside, the rest is filled with bondo.

Bart.

That actually a GREAT idea! Never thought of it as I always weld everything in, but in this case it's the way to go. I have to add some filler anyways and doing it the way you described would be very little extra! THANKS!!

[e-tek]

3m makes a lot of body shop epoxies many of the late model cars are actually assembled with some panel epoxies. That would probably work to patch a sunroof especially if you flanged the new panel with a flanging tool. It would require less filler that way. I don't know about longevity though. But there would be no heat, sparks, warpage or possible fire and would be easier for the do it yourselfer.

Charles

Absolutely the way to go. I've used the 3M before in a shop setting, but not in the restoration shop. With everything being clean and a flange as you mentioned, it should be easy peasy!

[e-tek]

. He said it should last 10years no problem. His reasoning why to use glue was: Easy and quick to use. And 10 years would be long enough because most cars go to the crusher before then.

I dont know if that is the same product.

chas

**** I hope it last MUCH longer than 10 years - maybe THAT'S why it's not used in restorations!!! I'll have to research it closely....

[bartsscooterservice]

Yup, you have to get the right stuff for permanent attachment.

[EhlersRS]

It was as easy as a couple phone calls.... Just be sure to get the "Euro-Spec" one. The parts (girl...) forst told me it'd be $1100.00 but I was told by a member here (240dkw) he bought one for about $200, so I called his dealership in Calgary, AB and got the right price ($240CDN) and part number. Called back to my dealer in Saskatoon, SK and then they got it right: $240 overnighted from AB, no shipping. It's only wrapped in a thin foam packing but it was perfect.

Ed,

Thanks for the information on the fenders from Nissan. I'll have to stop by my local Nissan dealer and see if they can get me the new fenders. I already have the Nissan part numbers: 63100-n4700 (right) and 63101-n4700 (left). These should be the same part numbers you used, for the left fender at least. I wish Nissan still stocked the hood, but from what I've read on this forum, their hood inventory is gone.

Robert S.

[e-tek]

All I have left to do before putting high-build primer in the 240Z is the doors. There's so much paint on them they need to be stripped and being large and flat I decided to use the heat gun and scraper.

The left door was a replacement and had been painted several times, several different colors...

The right door was painted twice, silver each time:

A quick run with 80 on the DA and the should be ready for primer too!

[e-tek]

All I have left to do before putting the high-build primer on the 240Z is the doors. There's so much paint on them they needed to be stripped and being large and flat I decided to use the heat gun and scraper.

The left door was a replacement and had been painted several times, with several different colors...

The right door was painted twice, silver each time:

A quick run with 80 on the DA and they should be ready for primer too!

Edited August 13, 2013 by e-tek

[bartsscooterservice]

**** I hope it last MUCH longer than 10 years - maybe THAT'S why it's not used in restorations!!! I'll have to research it closely....

I have found the right stuff after asking the bodyshop: 3M productnr: 08115 and the nozzle 08193

On-line Product Catalog: 3M? Panel Bonding Adhesive, 08115, 200 mL Cartridge, 6 per case

[bartsscooterservice]

3m makes a lot of body shop epoxies many of the late model cars are actually assembled with some panel epoxies. That would probably work to patch a sunroof especially if you flanged the new panel with a flanging tool. It would require less filler that way. I don't know about longevity though. But there would be no heat, sparks, warpage or possible fire and would be easier for the do it yourselfer.

Charles

Yes 3M actually has a product for it, you'r right. See my post above.