E-tek RACING '71 Parts Car Resto

[e-tek]

E-tek,

Do you have a sandblaster cabin ? If not i'd recommend getting one.. it saves ALOT of time on all the small parts...

Gr Bart

Yes I do. I'm fairly well-equipped, but I have learned over the years what to farm out - like some paint jobs and major blasting. I've also learned not to blast things like carburetors !

[e-tek]

It's killing me not getting at the re-assembly process now that it's paints (and ALL the parts are here!), but I've got several other projects in the cue and I'm hoping as my son gets older his interest in it grows.....

[tamo3]

Looks great! I really like the color.

Could you tell us what exact color did you paint? product code?

Also, did you spray clear?

[e-tek]

Looks great! I really like the color.

Could you tell us what exact color did you paint? product code?

Also, did you spray clear?

You bet! It was done with Dupli-Color's "new" Paint Shop paint system, which is a DIY color system you spray right from the can - no mixing, reducer or hardener required. I used about 4 (quart) cans of their Deep Blue Metallic and 4 cans of clear, which are about $30.00 a can, so the total for the paint was about $250. Compare that to about $1000 for 2-part paint from a local supplier.

I sprayed it from a $120 HVLP paint gun in my own shop, after draping the surroundings with plastic and watering down the floor. (Of course even doing so, the floor is now blue!) The paint went on easily, just make sure you have a cross-flow (fans sucking air through and out) and a GOOD "Organic Vapour/OV' rated mask. I used a P100 rated mask, which is not quite the same and got pretty high near the end....

After a week or more you will need to buff it all out with a power buffer, which can be just as much (or more) work as the paint process to make it shine. That'll be down the road for me though, as I have a couple other project to get done ahead of it!

Hope that helps - if you have any specific questions, fire away!

Edited October 18, 2013 by e-tek

[tamo3]

Thanks for the info!

Based on a lot of people's recommendation I was planning to paint my car with PPG.

I bought Epoxy primer ESU470 a couple month ago. I haven't spray epoxy primer yet.

Do you think if I use this Epoxy primer and use Dupli-Color's "new" Paint Shop paint system will messed up?

[e-tek]

If, by Epoxy Primer you mean a 2-k (2-part, catalyzed) high-build primer for block sanding, that's what I used - and always use. I block it all out with 120 then 180, then re-spray it to sand it with 320 then 600 wet. Finally, I sprayed a 2-k sealer just before spraying the paint.

The big (and really only) difference between the PPG-type of paints of course is that the are catalyzed, meaning after you spray the base you mix and spray a catalyzed clear (not necess. the same brand) which has isocaynates (the DC product doesn't) but will be harder and shinier right away, while the DC paint will need to harden over time and has to be polished to a shine. Polishing the hardened clear is not really for shine, but to remove orange peel, dirt, runs or other imperfections.

They are very different products. The Dupli-color product is easier to spray in a DIY setting, with no mixing or reducing required and no isocyanates to worry about, but, you have to wait for it to harden (days to weeks), then you need to polish it to a shine. Hardened/2-part paints were created for production settings: dangerous, but fast to harden and shiny right away. If sprayed under perfect conditions (heated booth by an experienced painter), it may not have to be polished at all and can be ready to re-assemble and deliver in hours.

Lastly, repairing the Dupli-color product is easy in a DIY setting too. You just sand it smooth, then blow on enough base to cover, then a few coats of clear. You'll then be able to polish it and it'll blend in, whereas with catalyzed clear generally has to be painted in full panels (it can be blended out in small areas, with specific solvents that will 'melt' it into the old clear).

Hope that helps!?

Edited October 21, 2013 by e-tek

[tamo3]

Thanks E-tek for the detail of explanation.

I used 2K epoxy primer as you mentioned.

When I read review of this paint at Amazon, a lot of people complain about clear.

How many time did you paint clear?

Thanks,

tamo3

[e-tek]

I put on 3 or4 coats of clear. I haven't polished it yet - maybe I will at least do a piece this week to see and show how it turns out.

[tamo3]

Thanks E-tek. Look forward to seeing the final results.

In the mean time, I want to see more pictures. The color looks like a bit lighter. but some area shows purplish blue.

Can you post more photos?

I like this level of dark metallic blue

But this level of metallic blue is also look nice.

i wonder mixing with BSP210 - Midnight Blue with BSP204 - Deep Blue (Metallic) can make the color darker easily...

Regards,

Tamo3

[Jay Gadsby]

Looking great!! Any more progress on this? I love these threads. I just picked a 71. Welder in the mail and am ready to get to gettin'.

On your windshield, did they just use a universal moulding??

[hr369]

when are you going to paint the area at the bottom

of the windshield? that area shows a bit even after

the cowl cover is on.

[e-tek]

when are you going to paint the area at the bottom

of the windshield? that area shows a bit even after

the cowl cover is on.

Never!

Front Suspension - complete stock rebuild - plus Urethane bushings: