Aah dam it. Now that "bloody" finger of yours is back on this page. I have to see that every time.

The new web host lists 100 post per page instead of 25 or so.

Chas

Unfortunately, the roof had a sunroof cut into it at some point in the cars life and although I don't mind having a sunroof in the car, the roof has lost a lot of strength and some of it's shape. I debated filling the hole with metal but that would take like 30 hours of work - minimum - plus all the hassle of removing and replacing all the interior roof parts. Let me ask - would you?

I also had a sunroof in my 240z. I replaced the entire roof skin on my car with a donor roof from a 280z. Each roof will have about 90 spot welds that will need to be cut out. Well worth it IMO.

Steve

I also had a sunroof in my 240z. I replaced the entire roof skin on my car with a donor roof from a 280z. Each roof will have about 90 spot welds that will need to be cut out. Well worth it IMO.

Steve

Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Spot welds cut out.

donor roof from 280z with spot welds cut out.

I used body lead in the corners like factory did.

Body lead for rear also.

E-tek,

I was surfing on the Evercoat site and they make a "Panel Bond-30" and a "Panel Bond-45" Lifetime warranty... seems to bond anything to anything...

Charles

Ready for primer -

Here's she is with a first application of high-build epoxy:

Now i'm sanding....and sanding......should finish sanding the first coat of high build today, then I'll spray a (hopefully) final coat tomorrow. Next weekend a final wetsanding, then (HOPEFULLY) PAINT....

E,

I saw that you were using tape to straighten the lines on the car. What is your technique for doing this? I have been using that technique on my doors because they had some damage right at the detail line in the door but they are still wavy. Any pointers would help?

Charles

E,

I saw that you were using tape to straighten the lines on the car. What is your technique for doing this? I have been using that technique on my doors because they had some damage right at the detail line in the door but they are still wavy. Any pointers would help?

Charles

The technique I learned is to tape off above or below the line, then sand with a long board to the tape. On the quarter, because this line ends (almost disappears) at the curve of the rear wheel arch you can really only tape off BELOW the line, then sand from the top, down to it. Once you get a nice straight line, remove the tape and then sand from the bottom up to the line trying not to erase it!

On the door you can tape and sand from above and below line, giving you a nice crisp line. Once you're done sanding from both sides and you've remove the tape, just make sure not to erase the line by sanding over it too much.

Hope that helps.

Edited August 25, 201311 yr by e-tek

When you sand to the tape do you hit the tape at all. Or do you try to sand right up to the edge of the tape. I tend to hit the tape some but it seems to get sanded instead of the primer. Juts wondering if that is correct...

Thanks for the reply,

Charles

The tape is there so you can sand up to it, but if you go over it's OK. It not only gives you a straight edge, but as it protects the area it creates a high spot - the ridge you need.

Just got the right fender installed and sprayed the second and (hopefully) final coat of high build on it. Wet sanding and painting the inners this weekend!!

Edited August 29, 201311 yr by e-tek

You're lapping me at this point. I found a little more frame damage the other day, so I have put off spraying the engine bay and interior until I get our frame man to pull on it a little bit. It is great to get to color. It starts to get fun after that...

Charles

FINALLY!! :thumbup: Color on the 240Z today - inners anyways. Hopefully complete it on Sunday. The local jury is still out on the color (Mrs E-tek and Colt had plenty to say :wtf:), but I think it'll be fine. I didn't over-think it and of course had to use Dupli-Color's pre-mixed colors, but even so, I made up my own shade with a 4:1 custom mix of their Brilliant Aluminum and Deep Blue Metallic colors.

I got started at 9am to catch the coolest part of the day, but by the time I got through applying the primer sealer, then the base, then clear, it was an 8 hour process and the clear was STILL going on at 2PM and it was 30C....

First up - final masking (9am 21C/74F)

Sealed up, ready for final wipe and tack: (10:45am 22C/76F)

First application - Primer Sealer: (11:15am 25C 82F)

While the Primer Sealer (large can in back) flashed, I mixed my base color:

The Deep Blue Metallic was mixed into the Brillaint Silver:

As I had decided on a 4:1 mix ratio, I just used the appropriate mixer gradient on the mixing cup:

The new, custom color. That's a TON of metallic.... (12:00PM 28C/88F)

The re-coat windows were considerably shortened due to the temperature in the shop, so - after a bunch of test sprays to set up the gun were shot - on went the base coat: (1PM 30C, 92F)

Me likey - but Colton wasn't so sure.... :bounce: Oh well, time for the clear coats: (31C, 94F)

A couple hours later and the floor was dry and we could open the doors:

Tomorrow I'll tear off all the masking paper, Lower it down on the rotisserie, install the doors, hood and hatch, wet-sand all the overspray, then re-mask and seal it all up - again. Hopefully I can shoot the outer on Sunday and be done with for a while. I have to leave it for a while anyways before color sanding it and I really want to tear down the Camaro so that when the body parts come I can get right on it.

nice !