I checked the combination switch with multimeter. There is WR wire coming in and R going out. When lights not on, WR: 11volts, R:0volts. Lights on WR 11volts R:10.8volts. So the combination switch is either dirty or broken. I get normal readings on fuse box when lights on.:ogre:

Any suggestions for cleaning the combination switch?

Yup, use the search function. This subject has been written about several times and documente like crazy.

Good Luck,

Dave

I have a crazey light problem, i get no headlights when you turn the switch on, flip the high beam and lights come on ?

Check the 3 wire connector on the Turn signal switch. There should be a Red/yellow, a red/ white and a smaller red/black? Check the connections there and at the white switch on the T/S switch body, which also has those same red/yellow and red white wires. Those are the Hi and Low beam wires.

Also use an ihms meter to see if the switch is working properly.

Dave

I have not had a chance to look at the wiring or test the switch, just thinking ahead, if one ore both switches are bad, can i replace it with one from another year 280Z ? Can i have them rebuilt ?

Edited November 6, 200915 yr by kjphilippona

I can rebuild or replace them, email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com

I just fixed this same problem today ! IT was not the switch in my case. It was the fusible link under the hood. There is one there, just for the lights. Mine had a dark corrosion on it. Five minutes with some scotchbrite, and voila' headlights work. Mine had become intermittent recently , working kinda when they wanted to. Last night, was at by bro in law's watching football, no lights to drive home . Found this problem today, so give it a look see. I had no current to the fuses, and certainly nothing at the switch, but my parking lights worked fine, tail lights worked fine. Sounds very similar.

problem FIXED!! Thanks to MikeW's exellent pdf about how to clean combination switch! It only cost me 1$!! Now back in business!

Thought I'd give my fusible link a look since the covers on this car were replaced with duck tape and cardboard. Links looked ok under one but when i examined the others the connectors were barely hanging on and broke as soon as i touched them. Are these special or just a piece of 8 gauge wire with connectors on either end ?

Not sure on that one. Should be able to pick them up from Nissan. I would make sure I got the right thing. Electrical is not the place to be experimenting, hate to burn something out.

Thought I'd give my fusible link a look since the covers on this car were replaced with duck tape and cardboard. Links looked ok under one but when i examined the others the connectors were barely hanging on and broke as soon as i touched them. Are these special or just a piece of 8 gauge wire with connectors on either end ?

Fusible link means the material melts at a certain temperature. You can still get them from Nissan I think. You could replace them with an inline fuse if you don't mind being non stock. I think the fusible links are a little more forgiving on temporary surge loads.

Edited November 12, 200915 yr by theramz

You can get fusible link material from an auto parts store, but you'll probably have to put the connectors on it yourself. It has special high-temp insulation that won't melt or burn (much).

Problem fixed, one of the wires on the dimmer switch had come un-soldered :classic:

Edited December 6, 200915 yr by kjphilippona