Problem...wha....?

[Leeroy]

Whilst being the first to admit I'm not an expert on cars, I will also say that I have a fairly extensive knowledge of most things car...but this is one thing that I have no idea about...

Ok, my headlights and my dash lights. When I turn them on at first the head and dash lights were fine, then a couple of weeks ago my dashlights would 'flicker' on and off when they were just turned on (for a couple of seconds). Now the lights don't go on at all and my low beams are doing the same...is a virus eating my electrical contacts...now, it can't be a fuse or a wire thats come loose...so WHAT THE HELL IS IT!!! If anyone could help, it would be appreciated cause I have no idea where to start!

Cheers in advance!:classic:

PS I have a 75' 260 2+2

[2ManyZs]

Since it is affecting both the headlights and the dash lights, my first guess would be the headlight switch itself. You might be able to take it off and using a little electrical contact cleaner get it back in working order.

It may be worn to the point that it is not making contact well enough in which case a new or used replacememnt might be in order.

[Leeroy]

Cheers...thats the only thing I possibly thought it was, but I wasn't sure how its all wired...thanks for the input...anyone else have any other ideas (though this sounds like it).

Cheers

[Zedrally]

Before you go pulling anything apart, firstly get a can of CRC or RP7.

Undo the covers protecting the combination switch, then spray the contacts with CRC, work the switch(s) and hopefully your problem will be solved without pulling to much apart!

[Leeroy]

I'll try that tomorrow morning...its really pissing off, I have to use streetlights to check my speed(!!). The taillights won't come on with the headlights on now, only when the brake is on. Hope it works...will report back soon...:classic:

[EScanlon]

Leeroy:

Good advice so far, but FIRST check the fuse box. In reading your post, I must point out something that is very much a Z CHARACTERISTIC FLAW.

The Fuse Box!

Followed by the Wiring.

That said, I suggest that as a NEW owner, you FIRST replace, not remove and replace with the SAME fuse, I mean NEW fuses. Then if the problem persists address removing and disassembling a switch that you aren't yet sure is the culprit. There are way WAY too many insidents where the simplest repair was all the car needed.

Just because YOU haven't done anything to either the fuse box or the wiring does not mean that due to the change in owner that something has now gone wrong. You drive differently than the prior owner. I'll bet on it. Mayhaps you CLEANED where the other guy had only spilled, get the picture? Any one of those might / could / probably have effected some movement. A fuse might have been jarred a tiny bit, but that broke the metal to metal contact through which it WAS conducting and now it's mostly corrosion that it's on, that increases resistance, that causes HEAT, HEAT will and has melted many a fuse box.

So start there. If the problem persists at least you will have done a LOT in defusing the self-destruct mechanism that some Klingon's wired into it.

Disconnect the battery, this is done by disconnecting the fuse wire from the battery to the starter motor. The smaller wire, this effectively neutralizes the ignition and wiring harnesses. You can go ahead and disconnect the battery, but that's a much bigger pain and this does the same thing.

Remove the old fuses, run a small piece of steel wool through the contacts, (this is why you disconnect the battery from the system). Next, tighten up the contact clips, BEFORE you re-insert the fuses. This will now give you a clean contact area, a NEW fuse and solid mount.

Many times this clears many current problems and sometimes prevents new ones from cropping up.

The other advice you've received is excellent, but it is a bit more invasive into the car. If you wait till you get your factory manual or an Early Clymer's (my two pics), then how to disassemble some of the things you'll HAVE to, in order to get the combo switch out and reconnected properly won't be such a major pain.

Hope this helps.

[billcapp]

Watch this guy from Washington... , he may steer you wrong! NOT!!!! Escanlon has always been right on target. DO check out the fuse box first for corrosion. If you want to pull the fuse box it is a simple chore (one screw) just make sure the battery is disconnected. If the fuse box checks out the next most likely culprit would be the switch stick. That is another whole ballgame to tackle if you intend to disassemble it. If you are quite mechannically competent (ie. take things apart just to see how they work--and can put it back together in working order) then it isn't all that big a deal. I've taken mine apart down to the ball bearings in the switch (don't ask) to try to fix my running lights. The plastic piece inside was broke and not really repairable so I"ll be looking for a replacement. Good luck with your task and check back often if you need further assistance. This group is the BEST for help!!!

[Leeroy]

Took your advice and got up early too pull apart my car...didn't fix it...so I went and checked the price on a replacement switch, only A$55...but since I just read that even though I checked all the fuses I should still replace them (I'm gonna do that tomorrow and then I'll replace the switch if it doesn't work), I think i'll do that. Anyone else who can give their 2c is welcome...all the advice i can get helps, but this should fix the problem (I'm hoping).

Cheers guys, I'll keep you posted!:classic: