does anyone know is the steering coupler bushing can be replaced without removing the steering rack assembly, it looks like it can because its 4 bolts that go through the bushing, but i dont wanna attempt it and screw something up

I've done this and I can't tell it did anything to effect the steering or alignment. I put the harder coupler in my 77 280Z a couple of years ago. If your putting the urethane coupler in just pay attention more when turning into speed bumps, driveways and dips at slow speeds.

why what happens when turning intospped bumps and driveways?

I have put these in without removing the steering rack. Not difficult at all. Basically, when you turn your steering wheel with the rubber insulator in place some deflection takes place. Put in the urathane and any steering input is transmitted more quickly because there is no deflection that would have occured with the rubber. It has no effect on the alignment.

What I am sure Reddie73 is refering to is that if the wheels encounter something that forces them to turn - the wheels turn the steering wheel. Some of that is mitigated by the rubber insulator.

Edited October 8, 200915 yr by conedodger

Very good explination conedodger, what you said is what I was refering to. I like the steering feel much better with the ureathane insulator, but that is my opinion.

Bryand2 .. I did mine and it took about 15mins. Just be careful so as to not alter the orientation of the rack portion of the shaft to the Steering wheel portion. I used some chalk and marked both pieces along with taking several photos before I dissassembled. Loosen all the bolts first and you'll have to rotate the steering wheel to get access to the lower ones. Then take the bolts out one at a time. When you get to the last bolt try to remember how the plates were arranged, it makes it easy upon installing the new one(you also have the photos if you forget).

Pre-assemble the New one with the plates and bolts loosely so you know how it should be installed and then go to it. One bolt at a time .. once you get 2 bolts in the 3rd and 4th may require rotating the steering wheel slightly.

No lubrication of the Urethane coupler is needed - and tighten it up!

I noticed a tighter steering response after putting the urethane coupler in as my rubber coupler was mushy. I did not notice any vibration or new noises being transfered to the steering wheel after I did this change. I'm very happy I did it.

Anyway - good luck ..

Edited October 14, 200915 yr by moritz55

I have put these in without removing the steering rack. Not difficult at all. Basically, when you turn your steering wheel with the rubber insulator in place some deflection takes place. Put in the urathane and any steering input is transmitted more quickly because there is no deflection that would have occured with the rubber. It has no effect on the alignment.

What I am sure Reddie73 is refering to is that if the wheels encounter something that forces them to turn - the wheels turn the steering wheel. Some of that is mitigated by the rubber insulator.

Great explanation. When I was learning to drive, we have an old Willy's CJ-2A with manual steering. I learned pretty quickly to keep my thumbs out of the steering wheel

I have the Energy bushing kit. This thread has been great motivation for me to get on the coupler and rack bushings.

Just did mine as well but the whole column was out of the car. My 240Z's shaft is able to move in and out of the shaft but the 260Z's shaft seems to be solid. I also beplaced the bolts and nylon locker nuts. And yes, more POR15 as it's below what turned out to be a leaking master cylinder, rust was abundant.

The Urethane bushing allows me to feel a more responsive steering and speedbumps at an angle are a pain, if you're not holding on tight.

Dave