avoiding rust traps

[Walter Moore]

Well, tonight I finally got the engine and transmission out of the 240Z that I bought a couple of weeks ago, and have started looking for rust.

It is there, in all the ususal places. The bottom of the doors have rusted away, and there are bubbles on the fenders and hatch lid. The floor pan is ok, but some of the original rustproofing is flaking off.

I was delighted to see that there is no serious rust on the "strut towers" or what ever the areas where the struts mount is susposed to be called. Four frends, or family members of mine have lost cars to rust that removed the metal to which suspension part were attached. Some of those people found out about the damage while they were driving

If you haven't removed the door panels and checked the bottom of the doors, on the inside I strongly recomend doing so. Water gets down past the window when it rains and sits there with nothing to do but eat the metal.

[Doehring]

Hi all,

Sean mentioned the inner fender section. I got an inner front fender protection for my 240 Z made of alloy with rubber seals from a producer in Finland who sells these here via an agent. You can see this protection in my gallery. I also made protections cut to size behind the rear wheels to protect the gap between the lower rear fender and the fuel tank. Some Z have this originally. A similar part I made for the other side and cut out the silhouette of the rear muffler.

Into the doors, on to all inner fendersi, into all frames and all other hollow spaces I blew with an air compression gun at first 2 times an anti-rust fluid and some days later 3 times hot vaseline (acid free one !). Vaseline kreeps into all gaps when warm and protects the metal. To speed up that kreeping process I used an hot air gun.I also used Vaseline to close the little gaps that 2manyZ mentioned.

Another place where rust appears quite often is underneath the front window's upper rubber seals. Sean, take care of that area before painting the car when the windows are out.

Don't forget to take care of the area between the tank and the spare wheel. If you don't want to take out the tank press at least anti-rust and vaseline between these parts. Are shure that the vaseline is acid free or it will attack all rubber !

Rolf

Rolf

[Doehring]

Hi Sean and all anti-rust warriors,

I told you about the inner fender protections for our 240Zs. I got them from the german importer who has a webside with an english part. Look at www.Lokari.de

and get your informations and ideas. BTW, he is looking for sales agents in USA, Canada and France. Someone interested, at least for the Z's ?

Rolf

[260z]

I've got aluminium Lokaris as well. I bet that they have installed them when my car was shipped to Finland in 80's. These are the best way to protect your cars front end, especially those shelfs (airtunnels)that gather all the mud and crap inside front fenders.

Once upon time I had this saab minicar with same engine as many lawnmovers have!! This car was made by Lokari(my dad used to be SAABIST!! We have this saying about saabs and their owners Saabism is sicknes!! Litlebit off topic sorry?!?

[Sean Dezart]

Thanks Rolf - I've emailed him so we'll see how commercial he is!

[ZwolleY]

Has anyone used a rust converter available from auto parts stores? Seems that it would work on small areas. Danger here is you might be hiding rust and do more damage than good, especially when it is painted over.

[Sean Dezart]

Hey Rolf,

I tried to email you but wasn't allowed - hope you get this.

I've got the info from Thomas Hanna, the German agent and I'm nearly convinced. How do you fit these things on, are holes into the car necessary ? Thomas said they can be dismounted in 5 minutes - true ?

Are you satisfied with the protection they offer and can you confirm they don't interfere with larger brakes (Wilwood) and lowered suspension with 15x8 minilite wheels ?

Big questions but you're the man !

[germanz]

Hi Sean,

2 years ago installed them.

They fit perfect. You need at less 2 screws to fiy them.

The best point is a small wing at the deepest point, where the air stream can dry the room behind it.

For the space maybe my pic will help to get it clear.

Bye Rainer

[Sean Dezart]

Thanks Rainer

I'm gonna order 'em tomorrow!

I didn't see your "pic" though ?

Sean

[Doehring]

Hi Sean,

I have them in both my 240Zs. At first I lay on my back under the right fender and pressed the right aluminium mudguard with my feet and leading them with my hands in the correct position and the right shape. With a liner I marked the position for the 2 90° angels on the mud guard on the a level mid to the front frame rail. After that I took the mudguard out and fixed the 2 angels to the mudguard at the marked positions with 2x2 screws. I then pressed the mudguard as descibed in again and marked the position for the 2x2 screws that fix the angel to the frame. There I drilled 4 small holes, put hot (liquid) candle wax on the back of the angel (as rust /water protection) and fixed it with 2x2 screws

at the frame, at the same time melting the wax with a hair dryer for better adaption to the shape of frame and rail. This took me about half an hour by each mud guard. repeating the procedure at the other side. To take them out and in again you need about 10-15 minutes, including the lift of the car and the change of the wheel. The mudguard itself, once in shape, takes 5 minutes max. It's very easy, 4 screws only. I prefer to loosen the 4 screws that fix the mudguard to the angels. So the wax-rust protection to the frame doesn't get hurt. My Z is lowered, the tires are 195-70/14 and I had never a problem yet.

Good luck

Rolf

[Sean Dezart]

Damn, but you Germans are smart !

Well, they are ordered and will arrive just before Christmas.

Thanks both of you.

Sean