Mustache bar bushing replacement

[g9m3c]

Alright guys, I'm finally getting around to replacing my worn out mustache bar bushings. I thought I'd write this up to show what I've been doing and to hopefully help someone out who's about to tackle this project. First off, these things were terrible. It's turning into one of those projects. "Well, I have to take this off to get to that......so I might as well sand and paint it too." So here's what I started off with. The arrows point out the old and compressed bushings I'm replacing. You can see the slack between the bar and the bushings.

Here it is all taken apart.

Mustache bar and rear control arm mount taken off.

Some people say to burn these bushings out, but I've never been a fan of using a torch on critical suspension pieces, so I used this method.

I drilled a lot of holes around the perimeter of the bushings and then chiseled the rubber between the holes with a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to make the cut continuous all the way around.

I got the rest of the rubber filed out of the sleeves and am painting the bar right now. Hopefully I'll have some finished pics up pretty soon.

BTW, I bought the Energy Suspension bushings in black. They look and feel like exceptionally good pieces. I'll hold my final verdict until after they're installed though.

Also, I'm going to try to come up with a solution for the check plug on the rear diff cover. There's hardly any space between it and the control arm mount crossbrace to get a wrench in there. When you do manage to get it in there, it's nearly impossible to turn. I might cut out a small notch around the head of the plug and weld in some new material if needed.

Edited October 21, 2009 by g9m3c

[motorman7]

I need to do this on my '70 one of these days. Look forward to seeing the rest of the project.

Rich

[g9m3c]

Here's some progress.

I'm still sanding on the diff cover. In the end, it will be worth it. It's gonna look great, but geeze, some of that factory paint is tough stuff.

[Arne]

I just hope you don't find the poly bushings there in the M-bar to be too noisy. I've heard that complaint before.

[g9m3c]

I just hope you don't find the poly bushings there in the M-bar to be too noisy. I've heard that complaint before.

We'll see, but it's gotta be quieter the clunking.

I finally finished with the diff cover.

It has a brushed finish; kinda hard to tell in the pic. I think it'll look great with the black hardware (just got done painting that). That's it for tonight. I'll finish it up tomorrow and have some finished pics.

[beandip]

I removed the vary same polly bushings that you installed!

I found that the road noise and gear wine was more than I will tolerate. At least this has been my experience. I have the OEM rubber now and actually the only difference that I can see is the diminished related noise by about 40%. The performance of the suspension seem the same as far as I have been able to see.

By the way the picture showing the diff with the rear cover removed , the suspension member on the ground is the transverse link.

Gary:ermm:

[g9m3c]

I removed the vary same polly bushings that you installed!

I found that the road noise and gear wine was more than I will tolerate. At least this has been my experience. I have the OEM rubber now and actually the only difference that I can see is the diminished related noise by about 40%. The performance of the suspension seem the same as far as I have been able to see.

By the way the picture showing the diff with the rear cover removed , the suspension member on the ground is the transverse link.

Gary:ermm:

Hmm, maybe I'm not shooting myself in the foot with this one. I noticed with the design of the new bushings, if they're really torqued down, the washers between the body and the top bushings and between the mounting nuts and the bottom bushings will touch and be solid against the inner sleeve of the new bushings. The inner sleeves are only about 3/32" shorter than the two bushings held together and uncompressed. I realize that polyurethane is hard stuff, but it still might be possible to compress them to the point that the inner sleeve is wedged between the washers. I suspect that if someone tightens them again at some point down the road, it would be even easier for this to happen. Maybe that's the case with yours? I would think that if that's the case, then it would definitely amplify the gear noise. Now, my front mount is a modified RT style mount that uses a poly GM transmission mount, and I didn't notice a significant increase in the gear noise. Maybe poly all the way around will not be a good combo. I dunno, but we'll see.

Oh, and are you talking about the picture with the mustache bar in it as well? If so, thanks for clearing up the terminology.

Edited October 21, 2009 by g9m3c

[g9m3c]

Got it finished up!

Also, I figured out that once the new bushings and everything were installed, the plug has enough room to come out. Barely, but it works.

I need some better pics, but you can probably get the idea.

I drove it a couple miles and so far, it feels much better! No clunking when shifting or hitting bumps, and a more solid feel from the suspension. I like it. Also, there's not a noticeable increase in the amount of gear or road noise transferred to the cabin. I might notice it once I get to drive it some more, but I'm very happy with it so far.

[Pomorza]

That looks very nice. I'm wondering one thing here. Is it necessary to remove the diffy cover when you remove the bar. I have literally no bushing(s) really left there and I was planning on doing that same job.

I rather not have to drain the brand new Red Line gear oil I poured in there. If I have to then by all means sure but I rather not have to.

Thanks

Jan

[g9m3c]

That looks very nice. I'm wondering one thing here. Is it necessary to remove the diffy cover when you remove the bar. I have literally no bushing(s) really left there and I was planning on doing that same job.

I rather not have to drain the brand new Red Line gear oil I poured in there. If I have to then by all means sure but I rather not have to.

Thanks

Jan

No, you definitely don't have to. Once you remove the transverse link, the bar will come out the back easily. I needed to change the fluid anyway, plus I had a leak, so I wnet ahead and pulled the cover.

[WingZr0]

Looks freeekin sweet under there mate

[g9m3c]

Looks freeekin sweet under there mate

Thanks! I wish I had the time and money to go through the entire suspension right now, but I gotta take baby steps.