Mustache bar bushing replacement

[g9m3c]

Also, I thought I'd add this. If you're doing this project, be sure to let the car back down on its own feet (I put some blocks of wood under the tires so I could still get under it) before you tighten the clamps for the control arm bushings. I read this on here as well as in the FSM if I remember correctly. If you tighten them with the suspension at full droop, when the car is let back down, it will twist or tear the bushings.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Not if you have Poly bushings on the lower control arms. But you're correct for stock rubber. Looks good by the way. Now quit with the baby steps and rip that thing apart... hehehe.

Click on one of the 2 "Latest Gallery Uploads" on the front page and you'll see what I just got done on the 260Z. And here's some Mustache bar pics to add to your Thread.... I know the bar is on upside down on the diff, I fixed it after the picture was taken.

And here's the bushings on the 240Z without the bar.

[g9m3c]

Looks good by the way. Now quit with the baby steps and rip that thing apart... hehehe.

In due time, my friend.

Yours sure is a lot shinier than mine under there!

[Zs-ondabrain]

Luckily, the 260Z is a project car, so when I have time to work on it, I can take my time and do it right. If anything has a possibility of rust, it' gets POR15 when and where applicable. I bought the full ES Black (Graphite Impregnated) Poly Urethane kit and have or will instal every bit of it. The only think left in the kit is the End links and body mounts for the sway bars. 1" in front and stock 5/8"? in the rear.

Everything in the engine bar was also POR15'd and a double coat on the fender area under the master cylinder and clutch master area, as the old ones leaked and caused the rust that I had to take care of this time. It'll never happen again and if it does, the POR15 should slow it down and the area will easily be repainted without worry of the Brake fluid causing issues again.

Great write-up as I know the benefits of the Poly on My cars.

Dave

[OniZ]

Hey, what type of paint did you guys use or did you send it out to get powdercoated? I am planning on doing mine here real soon, didn't know if I should buy paint or not.

Oh yeah your diff and bar look great, nice work.

[kenz240z]

I like to use Eastwood's Satin Black chassis paint. It gives a finish that is real close to stock in appearance. I use Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator as the primer (Eastwood's version of POR15).

[Zs-ondabrain]

Hey, what type of paint did you guys use or did you send it out to get powdercoated? I am planning on doing mine here real soon, didn't know if I should buy paint or not.

Oh yeah your diff and bar look great, nice work.

I personally used Black POR15 Rust Encapsolator for almost everything under the car. Mustache bar, diff, control arms, strut housings, hangers, R/T mount, etc, etc. You can paint over it and it's actually a MFG suggestion to paint any POR15 that will be exposed to UV rays. Under the car is not typically a UV issue.

Buh bye rust, hello Beautiful.

Dave

[g9m3c]

Both of the above suggestions are great ones. I've become a pretty big fan of Dupli-Color's wheel coating paint, as well . It's resistant to oil, gasoline, brake fluid, etc, and comes in a spray can. It looks great and seems to hold up nicely. I used the same color that I used on the M-bar on my air cleaners. Here's what they look like after a few coats of clear and sanding/buffing.

In the end, it's still spray paint. For guys like me that don't have a spray gun, or even a compressor, it's probably one of the better choices I've found, though.

[OniZ]

Thanks I'll give those paints a go, and anything in a spray can will be good since I don't have a paint gun.

Edited November 4, 2009 by OniZ

[kenz240z]

I believe that Eastwood offers Rust Encapsulator and Chassis Black in spray cans, too.

[Dublin Z]

Thanks all for posting. Very helpful and prompted me to finally tackle my bushing replacement this weekend

I'd done most all the other bushings a few months ago but had chickened out of the mustache bar at the time.   That was probably a mistake and would advise doing all the bushings at once while the suspension is in pieces.

Anyway, about three or four hours in total and captured  the fun bits on video!!  The net outcome was very positive.  Not a Rolls Royce quite yet, but certainly way tighter with number of noticable  clunks having gone away.