Well I am embarrassed to say this, but I hope my Z friends will bare with me.

When I installed my ITG air cleaners it was a temporary fix. My problem was that after I removed my stock air cleaner, I honestly could not get it back on. My Master cylinder (non Z original part, has been replaced somewhat recently by PO) has ports on each side to facility easier routing I would imagine. My brakes come out of the fender side of the master cylinder. The plugs put in the side that face the air cleaner are too long to allow the air cleaner to be put back on.

I know what all of your are thinking. If I can get it off, I should be able to put it back on. NO SO says I!!! I was able to stick a wrench inside the air cleaner and loosen the nuts on either side of the carb. I cannot even get my hand inside to start the bolts with the long master cylinder plugs sticking so far into the engine bay. So what I need are super short plugs for the master cylinder so I can get my newly refurbished air cleaner back on.

Any ideas?

If the plug is solid, just carefully cut it to the length you need.

not solid. Looks like it has a flared tip on one end. I did find a wharehouse that sells brass plugs that are flat. It would give me the extra half inch I need.

I think I'd consider getting a new master cylinder that didn't need the plugs, but's that's just me...

I put a new master on my car after I bought it because all the seals were shot. The hard lines are on the fender side like yours and the new master has bleeders on the other side.

The only way I can get my (stock) air cleaner lid installed is by installing the filter in the lid before putting the lid on the base. I also need to have the thumb bolts in the lid otherwise there isn't enough clearance to get them in the holes.

Here is a picture of mine, is yours similar? I have just enough room to get the lid with filter past the bleeders. Do you have a picture of yours by chance?

THat looks like the same one. I need to study your post to see how you got it on. THey look similar. I will take pics to see if they are identical, but I have the bleeders on my engine side just like you!

Got a part number recommendation Arne? ha ha

Loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster to allow the master cylinder to swing a little out of the way. Maybe that will allow you enough clearance to remove the air clearance.

Steve

You know I never thought of that!

THat looks like the same one. I need to study your post to see how you got it on. THey look similar. I will take pics to see if they are identical, but I have the bleeders on my engine side just like you!

Got a part number recommendation Arne? ha ha

I took some more pictures tonight before it got too dark. They are just iphone shots but it should make my description above more clear.

I didn't have a ruler so I used my finger. That's about 1.5", and yes, I have measured that section on each of my fingers . You wouldn't believe how handy that is... I got the idea from an old time machinist

I know the horns are pretty black, I never got around to cleaning those. It's an ebay air cleaner

My master cylinder looks exactly like that. With the same long bleeders, but as I recall, I did not have 1.5" of room. Its been a while, so my memory is fuzzy, but I will definitely try again when I get my carbs back on!

By they way, thanks SO much for the effort in taking those pics!

Hey happy to help! I'd rather see you try again than spend money unnecessarily. It may not work and I have to believe there's enough variation in our cars one thing may not work for everyone exactly the same. It doesn't cost anything but a little time to try and it sounds like you'd like to be able to use the stock air cleaner again.

Case in point, 16x8 et0 wheels. I can't count how many times I've seen them look perfect in one picture with no complaints but see someone else having so much trouble with rubbing. Obviously there are many factors but tolerances have to stack somewhere