Exhaust manifold leak !

[kjphilippona]

Have not tried yet, i feel with all this vast knowledge on this board why not ask if anyone has the best way to perform a job. Learning from the school of hard knocks is not my cup of tea

[ZCurves]

NO. Do Not "Preheat", This would be a waste of time. You are not going to gain anything by attempting to temper the metal. The only thing that you will have to do is check the torque of the bolts after a month or two.

Edited November 13, 2009 by ZCurves
added text

[ZCurves]

Zedyone_kenobi - I think that it would be fine to use the "RED" LOCTITE on the portion of the stud that is going in the head, then use Anti-cease on the Manifold side. I believe that RED Loctite has the lowest "Release" of the different Loctite compounds so you might want to be sure. It would suck to have them permanently bonded to the head. The Anti-cease is best for the Exhaust studs, but I put it on all of the outboard side of the studs. Remember, a little of this stuff goes a long way. I will check on the Torque Spec for you, but I think that you will be fine. Just remember to re-torque after a few months.

BTW: Your silver Z looks fantastic! Send more pics.

Andrew

[Oiluj]

I believe "red" loctite is is the supposedly "permanent" hold (it's not), and the blue is the "removable" type.

[70 Cam Guy]

I believe "red" loctite is is the supposedly "permanent" hold (it's not), and the blue is the "removable" type.

Red loctite usually requires heat to remove the fasteners (sometimes not). I do not recommend thread using thread locker on studs. I have only ever seen and installed studs finger tight until they bottom out. I believe there is a Saab somewhere out there that takes 30 ft-lb's on studs but you need the cam lock stud remover tool. It would be a nightmare to remove studs if they have loctite

Anti seize helps prevent galling of the threads and the corrosion that binds/locks the threads together. This is why it's used on spark plugs. You can use it on water pump studs, and Honda even put it on my wheel studs.

Manifold torque in the '73 FSM is on page EM-33 (5.8 - 8.7 ft-lb's)

[kjphilippona]

Hi, i have been removing my heat shielding and spraying all my studs and looks like the manifold has been removed before because all the intake fasteners have been replaced with bolts. As i mentioned before the egr pipe had been welded so it broke as soon as i loosened the nut at the intake. Does anyone have one or know where i can get one ? I have searched all the zcar parts stores listed in another thread and they do not have one :disappoin

[kjphilippona]

Found all the parts i need at the z store, just very expensive. What would be my downfall just plugging the tube off ? My guess this is what everyone has to do if they install a header. Every thing else came off ok, no broken studs :classic:

[70 Cam Guy]

It depends on your emissions requirements. In California, removing/plugging the EGR would fail visual but that may not matter where you are.

The tube looks like something that can be made with the right tools. You may even be able to fix that again if you clean the weld and sleeve it/re-weld the break. A simple butt weld would probably crack again (like it did when you removed the tube).

The bolts are original on the intake side. I went with the MSA studs because I wanted new exhaust studs and I read it made installing the intake much easier

[kjphilippona]

Thanks 70 Cam Guy, my MSA stud kid has not come in yet ans will go to all studs also, those bolts were a pain. Will need some help on determining what studs get the thick spacers, some had washers some had spacers some only nuts.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

the studs make it much easier, The lower spacers and nuts are pain, but very doable.

[kjphilippona]

Got my hardware from MSA today, where does that 1 oddball stud go ? And i guess no flat washers are used except for the 6 thick spacers ?

[70 Cam Guy]

Originally, all of my intake studs had the flat washers. The very front, the very rear stud, and the 3 middle exhaust studs used the normal washers. The only places for the thick washers are where the exhaust and intake are siamesed on a single stud.

I believe the odd stud is for the very rear stud because the engine sling is mounted on that stud. I re-used my stock washers because my header flange is as thick as the intake flange.

The threads on my head were a little dirty and the M8 tap grew legs and disappeared on me so I used the double nut method to install the studs using a little anti seize.