Went to the SMOG place yesterday to get Ruby tested, DIDN'T PASS ! !

1977 280Z 4 speed by the way in California.

The guy was cool and over looked the K&N cold air intake and hooked it

up for free first to where it stood but that has nothing to do with this.

The numbers came back with a CO (Carbon Monoxide) count of

6% at idle and the same nuber at 2500rpm.

He said it being an older car I might be allowed 2% but those numbers

where WAY TO HIGH.

Told me she was running extreamly rich on gas and misfiring at idle and

to have a specialist in these cars check it out.

A fellow at the tow yard later that day said, "A missaligned

TPS sensor can cause the problem".

Calling back at the SMOG place the man said that could be true.

I found out the new TPS I got from Blake was set on max and dailed it

down hearing the rpms die down aswell, so I left it at halfway.

Anyway not wanting to waste my money I made a few trips then took Ruby

back home and parked her, AGAIN :mad: , and had a

look at her today.

Found that my oil was at the low level line after being new and full just

600 miles ago so whats that about ?

Checked the coolant and it's still clean but the oil was a darker color and

had a pungent smell like sour gasoline for a lack of a better refernce but

thats what it seemed.

Might be me but it did look a little running .

Must mention while on my rounds I backed out a parking space and

saw dark colored oil pools on the ground, didn't think it was me though.

Checked all the usual places today under the engine and oil pump and

found no signs of any leaks, no where not even the oil pan gasket.

Also she's not even burning blue oil smoke out the tail pipe so I doubt I'm

buring it off unless all this has something to due with my valves still

needing to be adjusted and a head gasket thats very slower seeping

coolant only and nothing else.

What should I do or is there more to this problem than a leaky gasket and

valve job.

~Z~

Edited November 11, 200915 yr by WingZr0

I found out the new TPS I got from Blake was set on max and dailed it down hearing the rpms die down aswell, so I left it at halfway.

Not sure I understand that as there wouln't really be a 'max' setting. Just a right and wrong setting. That could be the main problem as that would affect the fuel mixture. There is a certain procedure to setting the TPS. You want the idle contacts to be closed at idle and the wide open contacts to be closed a wide open. Neither set of contacts is open in between. Its covered on page EF-34 in the 78 FSM.

Well i loosened the two mounting screws and you can turn it a little to the left or right. Turn left the revs go up, turn right they go down. But still theres something else that needs to be down? Not sure i understand setting the contacts, is there i link to that part of the FSM you speak?

It's on page EF-34 in the 1978 FSM. I don't have a link to just that page and the xenon S30 reference site seems to be down rignt now.

It's done with an ohm meter. I haven't done it in years but this could be your problem at idle. Remove your EGR and clean it up too. The water temperature sensor sends a resistence signal as well and if it is all gummed up it could tell the ECU your engine is running hot, causing a rich condition.

High CO can mean too much fuel or weaker spark (ie incomplete burn). Like everyone has said make sure your TPS is adjusted properly. Temp sensors will also influence how much fuel the computer thinks it needs to add. Can a higher-than-spec fuel pressure cause a rich condition on the 280's?

Cleaning the EGR and tube is good and will help with the NOx levels.

You are talking about a couple different problems here. You need a friend to follow you when you drive the car. They can tell you if your getting smoke out the tail pipe on acceleration and/or decel. If you are getting gray-blue smoke on decel that is likely the valve seals. With the closed throttle, you pull a high vacuum that pulls the oil past the oil seals. Also, if you see the blue-gray smoke only after the car sits a little while, that can also be a sign of the valve seals. As the oil pools around the valve stem, it can seep down the valve stem and be burned when you first start the engine.

If you don't have an apparent external oil leak, and you're losing oil, it's likely being consumed. If your oil smells like gas, you are probably running rich. By the way, most OEM's say that 1 quart per 1000 miles is "normal" consumption, even on new cars.

Also, be careful what advice you follow from the tow truck driver. I've heard some absolutely crazy things from some of those guys.

THAYNX ALL, advice i'll follow. And will definately watch out those toy truckers . Have been smelling gas last few days when flooring it so surely running rich. Will get a bud to follow me around. Deans good at building race cars but i just remembered theres a guy in town that used to be a Nissan Dealer mechanic when these where new. I'll get him to spec her out with ya's tips. Lets get it right the first time, already going through withdrawls . THANX again all. ~Z~

Edited November 11, 200915 yr by WingZr0

Got me wondering, was there an end to this story?

Got me wondering, was there an end to this story?

No not yet, she's still parked in the driveway. In the same spot . Found a few more things since then like the leaky clutch slave AATCO Transmission said they replaced but didn't cause it's the same old one it started with. So now for safe measure I have to replace the master and slave for that. Then later the front input shaft seal in the tranny decided to give out so now I'm slowly leaking gear oil out the bellhousing , another thread started on that, and that was with the car just sitting there. At least that part was after it sat for a month fore had it gave out while been driven the gear oil would've gotten on the clutch disc then that would have to been replaced too. Before this all I needed was brakes, or so I thought. Guess the next to go is the shocks and springs . So she's gonna sit covered till I can afford to fix, and replace, everything at once. Least I know the problems now.

Edited January 6, 201015 yr by WingZr0

Took her to Stephens Automotive.

The Spark wires were installed on the cap wrong he knew something was off but

couldn't find what at first. Every thing was right and every test came back ok.

Then he saw the plug wires were installed 180 degress off! They were in the right firing

order just on the opposite side of the rotor cap.

Once he put them in the place "She purred like kitten!" he said =)

So next up is brakes fore I take her in for smog check.

Edited May 29, 201212 yr by WingZr0