Jump to content

IGNORED

Advice needed in rubber/weatherstrip installation


Reverend

Recommended Posts

So, i got FSM for 72Z. There is nice instructions how to install the rubber and weatherstrip. BUT, what im asking here, is hints of Z-demigods about the whole procedure. What is the wisest way of doing it.

I've never installed windows/strips/rubbers so that's why im asking. :stupid:

Also i've heard that installing mouldings can be tricky, is this just a rumor, i dont know.

Thanks and sorry

Link to comment
Share on other sites


It's all pretty straight forward. But make sure you use the 3M weatherspripping glue and wipe down anything to be glued, with a good cleaner (acetone, alcohol, brake cleaner, etc.) even roughing the surface before gluing is best. Glue both sides (body and rubber( let air dry for no less than 30 seconds, then attach, kinda like contact cement.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Windshield / Hatch glass rubber: Mount the rubber onto the glass, then the metal weatherstrip, then using the "rope trick" mount to the car. A dab of sealant on the rubber to the glass, or rubber to car won't hurt but if the rubber is good and pliable then it should conform easily and you may be able to get away without it. To help make the rubber easy to handle, soak it in a tub of hot water (not boiling) and keep it there so it will be warm and pliable until you mount it onto the glass, then work expediently.

There are those who would insist on the sealant, but IME it's oftentimes proved to be more problematic on installation than not.

The rope trick is simple. Use a 3/8" cotton cord, wrap it all the way around the rubber channel that will grip the lip of the car, ending with the rope in the middle of one of the long sides.

For the windshield, with the dash IN wrap so you end on the lower edge, with the dash OUT go for the upper (personal preference). Remember, where the rope wrap ENDS is where you begin to get the rubber to START lapping the metal seam. Hatch is your preference, biggest decision is whether you want to mount it with the hatch ON or OFF the car.

Quarter window seals: The LARGE lip goes to the outside of the car, the smaller to the inside. When you start mounting these, try to keep it nice and even; i.e. don't push in the rear in first, then the front. Use a dash of lubricant: a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in an ounce or two of water, wipe it onto the paint surface to ease compressing the seal. A bit more soap won't hurt and it will eventually dry out.

Once you get the glass / frame in deep enough, start your screws from the inside. Get the rear ones on just threaded and then the front ones. Once all of them are in place, tighten evenly all the way around.

Door window felt: (the one in the channel) make sure you don't get any grease or adhesive on the INSIDE of the channel, that's where your glass pane slides through. If you got the good felt set, it should have a couple of channels routed through it's length, THAT side is the inside. When you fold in the sides, the notches (channels) will allow the remaining felt in the grooved channel to fold over the "base" of the "U" that it will become. Apply your adhesive liberally to the METAL frame, and just a light skin coat on the felt. Start applying it from the base of the RUBBER window weatherstrip and then down.

The rubber window weatherstrip also needs to be inserted into the metal frame. Same process here, avoid the INSIDE of the rubber at all costs... you've been warned. Apply adhesive liberally to the INSIDE of the METAL frame and just a light skin coat on the rubber but JUST on the base, not on the sides of it. A little on the sides isn't bad, but if you're not careful you'll end up with it smearing on the metal and then onto your sleeve/arm later.

Pinch the rubber closed and begin inserting into the METAL frame AT the corner. If you bought the previously cut weatherstriping it should have the corner pre-cut for you. If not,then NOTCH the corner to make a proper 90 bend... ask your woodworking buddies for help if you're not sure. Keep the rubber pinched and using a paint stirrer stick or some other blunt straight edge, push it down into the metal. Make sure you bottom it out to get good contact. If you push it down far enough you'll clear the sides of the metal.

To make sure that it's in place properly, insert your glass pane into the metal channel and leave it for a while to ensure that it cures properly formed.

Hope that helps;

E

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 683 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.