New option for (almost) original key blanks

[geezer]

I've re-keyed a Datsun ignition lock, but those are easy to open without damage. Not so the door and tailgate locks.

I had a door lock cylinder that had been damaged by a PO hitting the stainless end cap with a disc grinder. So I figured there would be nothing to lose if I completely dissected it to see "whats what". They are as simple as it gets. Once the endcap is removed there is easy access for removal of the cylinder, then, it is easy to simply lift out and replace the pins (wafers) with the correct ones to match the key. Of course the endcaps would have to be replaced and crimped on with the proper tool.

I say it is simple, BUT only if you can source the replacement pins (wafers) and new stainless end caps which would be difficult at best to reuse, as well as having a crimping tool to fasten the new stainless end cap. I still believe it is a job for a professional locksmith.

Edited November 20, 2009 by geezer
injected some correct terminology (I think)

[Arne]

I've got access to the pins, but not the caps or crimper. An ignition lock requires neither cap nor crimper, which is why that's the one I have done.

On a related note, even after replacing all the pins in the ignition lock with brand new, the key can still be removed in ay position, which is a common issue on these Nippondenso locks. I don't know whether that is because the key itself is worn, or the lock cylinder. Why don't you send me one of your new keys, Ron, and I'll see if I can figure it out!

[geezer]

Why don't you send me one of your new keys, Ron, and I'll see if I can figure it out!

Ah ha! I already know you need keys grooved the other way, unless you are planning to convert also.

Back to the stainless end caps; I'm sure they are not too difficult to find and could be a standardized part used for many models and probably other manufacturers as well. A simple die made by drilling a nylon block and a piece of PVC could be fabbed to crimp them easy enough. If replacements can be found and I can pry your source for the pins from you, I would attempt it.

Original owners should be able to tell us if the "key removal in any position" is something that developed over time, confirming worn keys, pins, a combination of both, or perhaps a design flaw?

Edited November 20, 2009 by geezer

[Arne]

Original owners should be able to tell us if the "key removal in any position" is something that developed over time, confirming worn keys, pins, a combination of both, or perhaps a design flaw?

Working as I did in the auto repair industry in the late '70s through the late '90s, I can say for certain that it developed over time. Pretty much all Nissans with those Nippondenso lock assemblies. Many Subarus used the same unit and were subject to the same issues.

Interestingly, the mechanically-similar ignition locks for the Series 1 cars (that use a single cut key) don't seem to be subject to that problem. Don't know what that tells us about the cause, but it does appear to be true.

[Unkle]

The '' end caps '' are called ''facecaps'' in locksmith lingo. The replacement facecaps are stainless and have 3 ''flanges'' that are bent over to secure it to the lock body. The tool I used ? a regular flat bit screwdriver. They are reusable as well ! Any locksmith will have a ton of old facecaps in the foreign automotive rekeying kit . They are all slightly different i.e. Mazda won't fit Datsun etc. Also try to get the gaskets from the dealer . Our gaskets turn to dust after 20 years !

Edited November 21, 2009 by Unkle
I have no life

[TomoHawk]

With so many mechanically-minded people or macine-equipped here, it's a wonder that no one has used a CNC machine or similar to make some dies to stamp out key blanks.