Jumping in with 2

[Darrel]

I use a pair of dikes(diagonal cutters) to score and grab the headless bolts. Keep the phillips head screws tight until you get the headless bolts out.

[ArnieTX]

The ignition in #2 wasn't original. It had 4 philips head screws. I was very relieved to see that.

Dremel is a must and after I took out the philips and the first smooth screw, I chased that stupid thing all over the steering column. Darn right about leaving the phillips screws in. It was killing me. - I got to a point where I started thinking I would take off the signal stuff and steering wheel and slide it off the column. That's until I read that to remove the steering wheel, I needed some sort of puller. I learned a lot today.

[Darrel]

Don't really need a puller to get the steering wheel off.

Keep the nut on the column but loose enough so that it will stay on, then bang, prod etc until the wheel breaks loose with the nut keeping it in place so the wheel won't smack you in the face.

Oh, and taking the switch off the way you were tempted wouldn't have worked.

[ajmcforester]

OK I think I ether missed something or the logic used seams off. Why would you not use #3's body while taking the parts from #2 to make it complete? The reason I ask it would be less work down the road to use the better body and transfer the parts over, body work is very time consuming. Is their something wrong with #3 engine and your trying to keep number matching or something along that line?

[ArnieTX]

#3 is going into tear down mode for full restoral. I originally thought I would get it running and then chip away at everything a little at a time. It just needs to much to get it running.

Instead, #2 is going into running mode so I can have a little joy in my life for all the time I spend working on these things. It's 99% there unless something internal in the motor is broken.

Perfect World --> I can tool around in #2 to get my "fix" while I work on #3 from the ground up.

Has anyone seen my medication?

[ArnieTX]

I won't be doing any body work to #2. Just getting it running.

[ajmcforester]

I think someone wants to use those nice shinny new carbs to make a car go vroom, instead of making the sound by himself:laugh: Well I guess you will have two Z to play with now Z-therapy is going to be happy.

[ArnieTX]

Bought a new battery and still got the click when I tried to crank. Took the starter off and cleaned it up. That's when I noticed it had a spade. Went back to the car and found a wire hanging down that looked like it would go on it. Cleaned it up, put it all back together. Success, motor turned over.

Changed the oil, the old oil look good and didn't see any metal on the plug.

I ran a hose into a cup of gas (ignition disconnected) with the hoses into the carbs disconnected. I wanted the fuel pump to crank fuel through the system until it came out of the carb hoses. Then I would hook the hoses to the carbs and try to start it. The fuel never made it out to the carbs. Got on the forum and poked around finding soemthing about taking the valve cover off and manually pumping the pump. I did that and felt suction but it was not very strong. I decided to help it along and went inside and grabbed one of my empty mustard bottles I use on my hot dog cart and filled it with gas. I forced fuel all the way through the system until in exited the carb lines. Then I hooked up the carbs and squirted some more into the system. Radiater filled up 2 minutes later and it's time to try it. :classic:

I cranked and it would cough a little, blow some smoke out of the carbs, cough and then it ran for a second. That's when I went to grab the camera. I started it and let it run for a minute or so, just long enough to see it working. I am a little worried about the coughing or backfiring coming out of the carbs and I don't want to hurt anything. I am so happy right now.

Oil pressure present.

Temp gas tank

Cheesy Video - 1st start:

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Dhanis_Dude/240ZFirstStart.flv">

Had a great evening!

Thanks

Edited March 9, 2010 by ArnieTX

[ajmcforester]

Besides the crabs sounding a little out of wack, check the valve spacing it sounds like it might not be correct. Also I don't know if you have put some oil that will restore the valve seals you might want to put some in they might start to crack if they haven't yet. That was one big step to road worthiness.

Fuel you probably need a new pump, it's a diaphram (sp?) pump, they tend to have the rubber harden up when they haven't been used in a while or one of the springs on one of two check valves is shot. I wish someone would make a rebuild kit for this pump it would be easy to do. I used a diaphram pump that were in use for 30 years when it finally the check valve spring broke, at the same time I found another pump that was five years old and had to rebuild it since the diphrams hardened up from sitting. If in use they are great when they sit they fall apart.

[oldhemi]

These pumps were made to be rebuild-able. Dont know if the kit is still available.

Arne, Use your lawnmower tank. Your motor will run longer! You could use an old motorcycle tank and hank it up higher - like an IV deal. Maybe one of your other cars has a better pump! I do like your ingenuity to use a mustard bottle for pressure! Get a gas filer attached before you start running from your installed gas tank if you have not yet.

I am just playing Devil's Advocate here, I'm sure you know all of this already.

Double check your plug wires. 15-24-36 where #1 is the closet to the radiator. Check for vacumm leaks. WD 40, propane ect aimed at connections.

[ArnieTX]

I'll have to google valve spaceing, have no idea what that means. What kind of oil are you talking about for the valve seals? I filled the engine up with a 15-30 castrol gtx. Is there something else I need to add? Before I started it, I took the valve cover off and inspected it. Pretty clean. I sprayed a little pb blaster all over everything in there and hand cranked the motor over.

The mustard bottle worked good to force fuel into the system. When squezzed I can hear it running through the lines into the fuel rail. Those bottles are really handy for squirting fluids into tight spots. I have one with ATF in it and was shooting it into the cylinders when I first got the cars.

I'll double check my wiring. I had to replace the plug wires one at a time from a different motor. The wires were all cut up. The distributor looked brand new inside. This car came to me without a gas tank so I figure the PO must have had carb or tank issues and that's why he parked it.

I just got home from an errand so I went out and turned it over again, it fired right up without the choke on. I put my hand over the intake of the left side carb and it is really sucking. Did the same on the right side and it isn't sucking that hard. I need to watch my videos now on tuning these things. I need to figure out how to confirm that both carbs are getting gas.

There is a strange "whine" when I give it a little gas. I haven't taken it up past 2K yet. The whine sounds like it's around the belt area on the front of the motor. I'll be running it a little more tonight. A buddy of mine lent me a timing light so maybe I'll learn something there.

Thank you for your advice and help. I really appreciate it.

[ajmcforester]

Their are a lot of oils that help recondition valve seals like Lucas oil additive it doesn't hurt, and should keep oil from leaking past the seal. I don't have any proof it helps but if can't hurt either.

You should check the valve adjustment. This is something you need to do every year. The reason why is the spacing between the cam and the valve rocker arm will loosen up over time. It is not hard to do these cars have a spot where all the valves are fully closed, sorry I don't remember what degree on the timing and seem not to have it at hand right now (I know it's on the inside of the valve cover in my car with the spacing, I etched it their so I can find it easily).

From my factory manual:

"Adjust intake & exhaust valve clearances" states at 600 miles then every 6,000 miles on Page EG-8

Then on page ET-4 shows how to adjust if needed a spacing numbers. It tells you to adjust them when cool and check when the engine is warm and adjust again if something is not correct. the number are:

Intake 0.2mm(0.0098 in)

Exhaust 0.3mm(0.0118 in)

To make adjustments, just loosen the pivot locking nut and turn the pivot screw. Don't forget to tighten the pivot locking nut or you will have fun. after you lock it check clearances again. Heat the engine up check to see if they stayed in tolerances, if so your good

If they are way off you can damage things like the cam, or cause exsesivw wear so its good to check.

In your case I'd just see if they are close for now I would not worry about heating the engine till you have the timing down. The back firer can be caused by not having the points gaped right, timing being off one carb being much leaner than the other and several other things like sticky valves. First things first you can't time the car if the points are not gapped properly so do that first. Then time the car (I know you should do that with the engine hot, but your not that close, I'm betting) just get it running OK. Then see how the carbs are doing, are all cylinders firing? you will know at this point