Jumping in with 2

[ArnieTX]

I have the stereo, I just didn't take a picture of it. Car #1 has a sweet stock AM radio that I may put into #3. I found out #1 has a working power antenna. #3 has one too and I pulled it yesterday, just haven't tested it.

I'm scratching my head wondering if I need to put this on a rotisserie and take it that far.

The rust doesn't seem to be that bad where I couldn't cut it our as it stands.

[ArnieTX]

So I get home from Little League and decide to hop in the Z and drive it to a buddys house who is trying to stick a 1964 truck body onto a 1971 4WD Blazer frame. Honestly, that doesn't look like fun to me but he thinks the same thing about my Z. I leave and am taking the old back road home and I remember that the fellow who gave me #3 and whom I've never met before, lives off of this road. I give him a ring to tell him I'm in the neighborhood and that I'd like to come meet him. 10 minutes later we are talking about my Z and he said come with me. Now this fellow had a hot rod shop back in the day and he showed me some of the coolest cars I've ever seen. He said one of these days he's going to jump back in it. He flies crop dusters now and was in aircarft painting for years.

Anyway, he said lets go for a ride and took me to where he had a 1972 240Z parked that needed to be restored for somebody, he just hasn't had time. He asked me if I could get the car running and to the point where he could finish the body and paint it. I said absolutely! He said when I get my Z ready for paint that he will paint it for me or show me how to do it myself. He even has some equipment like a sand blasting booth that he said I could borrow since his shop is all packed up. I am very lucky to have a resource in a good neighbor like him to pick his brain when needed. This fellow is one talented dude.

Remember how I loaded my Z: His way is a little more effecient.

Here it is in it's temporary home:

I'm going to divert my time for a while to help this fellow out since he gave me #3. Start with the fuel system and try to get this running. The underside has been coated and the motor has been rebuilt. I love working on these things.

Edited April 10, 2010 by ArnieTX
hit enter too early

[ajmcforester]

You might not absolutely need a rotisserie. However the car will be easier to work on. Also when welding it's nice to get what your working on in a comfortable position. Nothing like welding while under the car I don't think you will save time, instead you will probably spend more time by trying to get into position working around jacks and other things under the car. Also how long can you work on the hard to get places before your body would get fatigued.

I think your going to make a good investment with the rotisserie. I think you will find as you start work on the body without one your going to come to the decision you need one. Just my thought

[ArnieTX]

You make a very good point.

[Ausgang]

Got to work on it some more this evening. Pulled the interior except for the dash....

ArnieTX,

I love your pictures. The loader with a Z is a classic. Between the different Series 1s you have do you have an extra set of seat frames you'd be willing to sell? I have a Series 1 that I am restoring to original and I need a set of original seat frames to reupholster.

Ausgang

HLS30-000491

[ArnieTX]

Ausgang- sure PM me.

[ArnieTX]

I cleaned it out and it looks nice inside. I also took the carbs apart and cleaned them up. One had a choke frozen that required a little love(Thanks for the video Z-Therapy). I removed all the plugs and the engine turns over by hand. The plugs wires were connected backwards as if the #1 cylinder was at the firewall. I drained the gas tank and nothing exciting came out. After hooking up the battery to it from my car, I tried to crank it. Click. I'm pooped so I'll mess with it some more tomorrow. If I can get it to crank, I'll run it off my mustard bottle for a while then I'll fill up the tank. It's a 3/72 car in pretty decent shape.

[Smokey]

Once again, I've found myself bitten by the Z bug, and have found your progress very informative. I just need to decide if I'm getting excited about owning a Z again, or if I'm getting apprehensive about some of the reasons that I had to let my first one go....:laugh:

[ArnieTX]

Find a Z and love on it. No hurry, no timelines, just drip on it when you can and enjoy your time with it.

[ArnieTX]

OK fellows, I need some help.

3/72 Automatic Tranny

Vehicle was stripped of suspension and drivetrain at somepoint for undercoating so I am assuming everything was put back correctly

Problem:

Attempt to crank motor but only hear click under drivers side panel. This is a "delayed" click at turning the key to crank. Car #2 had an issue like this but it's "click" correlated to the exact moment the key went into the crank position. It was an easy fix. This click has a slight delay/lag that isn't lining up with the moment the key hits that position.

Battery is good and charged. Came out of car #2. It's been in and out of both vehicles several times since I began troubleshooting this issue. Not a connection issue.

Starter kicks over fine when shorting out BY spade connector from solonoid to + on starter with screwdriver. Rules out starter.

Stuck a voltmeter on the same BY wire that comes out of the wiring harness and connects to the starter solenoid. With the key to the crank position, I do not see any voltage at all. I would expect 12v at the connector to be applied to the starter solonoid. No voltage present.

Climbed under vehicle and located inhibitor switch wiring off a tranny. 4 wires, two BY and a R and RB. Test procedure said check for continuity between the BY wires while gear selector is in P and N....checked and showed less than an ohm-GOOD. In 1,2,D, and Rev, VM shows an open so I'm guessing this means that the shifter positions are lined up correctly with the switch. A check of the RB wire shows continuity only in reverse - GOOD according to the manual. The manual and numerous posts suggest shorting the two BY wires together bypasses the inhibitor switch. Tried this and it still will not crank.

The seats are out of it and I remembered reading something a long time ago about the seatbelts not allowing a vehicle to start unless connected. I thought I read that if I shorted out the contacts on the connector that plugs into the seat side, it would bypass this as the problem. I tried it and it made no difference. Also buckled the seatbelts and that didn't help.

I need to figure out why I am not getting 12v to the starter solonoid when the key is in the crank position. Something is broken or preventing it from getting there. The delayed "click" leads me to believe that something else is at play here or something is connected incorrectly under the dash. While I've forgotten 95% of the electronics I learned in the military, I still understand the logical aspect of troubleshooting. At this point, logic says go get a beer and reach out for some help.

Ohmed out every fuse in the fuse block and all are good.

Any ideas or direction I can head? Hopefully I've provided enough data.

Thanks

[ArnieTX]

Found a nugget from Escanlon:

Let me describe the wiring at the Ignition Switch. This is accurate for the 70-73 years.

The Ignition Switch, attached to the back of the Steering Lock on the Steering Column has the following FIVE (5) wires connected to it via a 2x3 Male Spade Connector.

Black / Yellow (B/Y)

Black / White (B/W)

White / Red (W/R)

Blue / Red (L/R)

Green / White (G/W)

Using Nissan's color legend initials.

Their function / connection is:

B/Y: When the Ignition Switch (IS) is in the START position, it routes power from the IS to the Seat Belt Sensor (K-18) Relay and / or the Automatic Transmission Switch Inhibitor, then to the Starter Solenoid. If either the SBS or the ATSI are open then no power and no start. This wire is only active in the START Detent.

B/W: Routes power to the Resistor in the engine bay which then returns it to the Tach via a Green / White wire. That G/W wire then connects to the G/W wire also attached to the IS which also routes power to the Tach. The Tach then sends power to the Coil via a B/W wire. This B/W wire also powers the Flasher fuse at the Fuse Box. Also connected to this wire are: Kick Down Switch (AT Only), Oil and Temp Gauge Sensors. This wire is only active in the RUN detent.

W/R: This wire brings power TO the ignition switch directly from the Fuse Box. It also shares power with the Accessory Relay. On most wiring diagrams the connection to that wire was not annotated, and is misleading. The wire DOES connect with the wiring going to the Acc. Relay. This wire is live ALL of the time and connects in all 3 detents: Accessory, Run and Start.

L/R: Routes power to the Heater Blower, the Accessory Relay, and the Wiper and Accessory Fuses. This wire is only active in the RUN detent.

G/W: Routes power to the Tach and then to the Coil. This bypasses the Resistor. Only active in the START detent.

BRB - gotta check something

[moonpup]

You know you want this....it's sooooo close and there's sooooo much extra room in the barn!

http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/1697046250.html