Jumping in with 2

[ArnieTX]

Awesome! Thank you.

I jacked both vehciles up and poked around a little looking at the condition of the underbody. Car #1 looks better overall. Car #2 has a rectangular patch behind the front left and right tires where the brake lines attach. Car #1 does not have this......

Question - Is this stock or is this a "fix" from something in the cars past history?

Car #2 under the front fender on the sidewall above the frame rail:

Now notice Car #1 doesn't have it:

[ajmcforester]

Awesome! Thank you.

I jacked both vehciles up and poked around a little looking at the condition of the underbody. Car #1 looks better overall. Car #2 has a rectangular patch behind the front left and right tires where the brake lines attach. Car #1 does not have this......

Question - Is this stock or is this a "fix" from something in the cars past history?

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That is not the best way to patch the car that is how they would do it at a body shop, it was more than likely glued on (it is strong it just won't last over many years of use. If you find more like this do #1.

By the way if you can get the car up enough you can drop the engine/transmition and front suspention from the bottom it is easier, to do that you need to take off the intake and exhaust. to make sure things don't go out of line you may need to put the engine in and out several times to make sure things line up when the weight is on the wheels. Also don't start cutting until you brace the car other wise it may fold or bend out of shape (this isn't hard as long as you tack-weld well). Also consider using bracing in any area you see a lot of rust before getting stripped, if you use a good media blaster they usually stop before blowing out to much rust but why risk it.

The more I look at your pictures the more I notice the hard to find parts are their, it is just a lot of rusted areas that need some work and cleaning the rest. Are the seats new or where they that nice in the car?

[ArnieTX]

The seats were from car #2 and appear to be new or recovered. I found tape underneath with writing, "passenger", "driver". I just wiped them off with some armour all type protectant. They are soft, not dried out.

#2 is missing it's fuel tank. #1 has one fiberglass (appears to be) head lamp fender thingy....can't remember the name.

My gut says run with #1. It also has the lowest SN#. For some reason I like it better.

Thanks

Edited December 8, 2009 by ArnieTX
Deleted stupid question about jack locations

[ajmcforester]

The seats were from car #2 and appear to be new or recovered. I found tape underneath with writing, "passenger", "driver". I just wiped them off with some armour all type protectant. They are soft, not dried out.

#2 is missing it's fuel tank. #1 has one fiberglass (appears to be) head lamp fender thingy....can't remember the name.

My gut says run with #1. It also has the lowest SN#. For some reason I like it better.

Thanks

Look at that healight bucket better it maybe ABS plastic, if so that is an original for your car. You can only get used ones or metal ones now. I have two extra ones for one side I'll find out later what side if your interested. The plastic ones where only used on the earlier Z's and there is a history and story to these plastic buckets. I don't have the time right now to scan the microfiche copy and post it for you. If I remember next time I'm at the library with my microfiche I'll make a copy to scan, if your interested.

[kenz240z]

A few air tools that will come in handy: die grinder with various wire brushes and grinding stones, a cutoff tool for cutting out rusted metal, a DA for removing paint & surface rust (40 & 80 grit discs work well for this), a cheap HVLP paint gun for spraying primer, a good HVLP paint gun for spraying color coat and a 2nd good HVLP paint gun for spraying clears.

A good MIG welder and a good electric grinder will be useful for patching the areas where rusted metal has been cut out. Use the grinder to dress the welds down. Various body hammers & dollies if you plan to tackle dent removal on your own (Martin & Snap On). Harbor Freight makes a decent stud welder that comes with a slide hammer, this is a useful tool for pulling dents that have a brace on the back side (prevents using the hammer & dolly).

If you have the room in your shop, put in a 2-post or 4-post lift! After years of working under a car on my back I decided it would be easier on me to put the car in the air!

[ArnieTX]

Thanks Kenny. I went and picked up an air ratchet, an impact, some items to organize my wrenches and sockets, and a few screwdrivers. I've never been much or had a reason to be much of a tool person so I'm sure this little endeavor will change that. That little 3/8" air ratchet is money!

I've been squirting a little ATF into each cylinder daily for the last few days. I decided to take off the valve cover and see if everything in there was fine. Looks normal except for one area on the cam where it had a little discoloration/light rust. I started working the ratchet back and forth and it currently swings from 12 oclock to about 2:30ish each direction before I feel it binding up. BTW - It get's easier if you remove the belts first... . After I went back and forth a few times I squirted some more ATF in the cylinders and put the cover back on and plugs in.

PICS of tonights progress:

It will take a while to plan the disassembly and read up so while that's going on I'll see if I can't get her running. That would be a small victory.

Thanks for everyones help. I am enjoying this.

Arnie

[ajmcforester]

It will take a while to plan the disassembly and read up so while that's going on I'll see if I can't get her running. That would be a small victory.

Thanks for everyones help. I am enjoying this.

Arnie

Be careful don't loosen the cam towers on the head, very few people in the country have to tool to reline the towers, and it won't be cheap. You can take the cam out just don't un-tighten the wrong fasteners.

[ArnieTX]

The motor broke free today. I've been rocking it back and forth for a week or so. Spins nicely by hand now.

I ordered a couple of Z books, one on restorarion and one one motor rebuilding and have been reading them. Going to organize my work area and start taking one apart this weekend.

Arnie

[ArnieTX]

UPDATE

I'm now in a position to remove the motor. All I need to do is find 4 bolts, I believe 10mm X 1.5 pitch X 80MM length... for the engine stand I borrowed from a buddy.

Car #1 didn't have the attachments for the engine hoist to connect to so I snagged them from car #2. The front right passenger side piece is mounted but the drivers side back piece by the carbs cannot be mounted because the stud it goes on is broken/missing.

I pulled a bolt off the intake and mounted it there.

Is this a bad idea? Is there an alternate spot to mount it? I don't want to bend that rail, I think I have enough clearence. Please advise.

Thanks

[ZCurves]

ArnieTX - I just picked up this thread and I definately share in your excitement. Where are you located?? I am in Spring, Tx and there are a bunch of us Zed Heads up here. It would be great to see your rides. Have Fun!

[ajmcforester]

You should be OK if you take the fuel rail off. I'd recommend taking the carbs off and the emission control stuff, it will make getting the motor out easier. Also the linkages are a pain to get for the early 240Z's. When you have the engine supported by the engine hoist, I would disconnect the trans. The engines and trans were put in from the bottom not the top. You might also want to put the rear wheels on the cars weight will shift when you remove the engine weight and I would not trust all wheels off and just jack stands when that happens.

Some tips you might need in the near future Don't make the engine pretty yet you will be putting it in 2-3 more times so you can get the body to fit right or make it pretty and use the other engine to get the body right. That is the advantage to having two cars ones cars parts can be used while the others are be restored, and as a reference car.

Remember to put the engine and trans after stripping the car to bare metal and before you put in supports to keep the car from twisting. After you put supports in you can remove the engine, and trans. You will also put it back in to make the final panel alignment just before paint. If you don't do this you run the risk of having a car where the gaps won't line up well when you put it back together. I can't tell you how many cars I see this on it just takes the engine going in two more time to prevent this problem.

Good luck you are realy moving on getting this car apart

[ArnieTX]

Andrew - I'm 60 miles west of San Antonio but I'm in Spring once a month. PM me your contact info when you get a chance and I'll give you a shout next time I'm heading that way. I'd love to drink a cold one and talk Z with you.

AJM - Thanks for the information. I'll block the vehicle good before I pull the motor. The tranny is disconnected and I just need the motor stand bolts.

Once I get the motor out I'm going to remove everything from the exterior, interior, suspension, etc. You lost me on the support and alignment part. Do I need to weld some square tubing across the front of the motor from frame rail to frame rail right now while the motor is still in it? So that it's "aligned"?

I listen to a local car radio show occasionally and a while back they had some folks who did soda blasting.

http://www.acsb-tx.com/

Once I get all the parts off my Z is this the type of "blasting" I need to get? After this , then a primer coat right?

I want get this Z into a position where I can see where all the rust areas need repaired and where it won't rust any further. Then I'll see what I can fix myself and what I need to get done someone with more skills.

Thanks

Arnie