Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

Does 280Z Have Wiring for Fog Lamps?


TomoHawk

Recommended Posts

Not sure on the 78's, definitely there in the 240's. Don't know why they wouldn't include it in the wiring harness.

To verify, look at the wiring harness that goes between the headlights and horns in the lower front of the car. You should see a pair of bullet plug pairs (1 male / 1 female) coming out of the wiring harness and then taped to the body of the harness. Usually a light blue vinyl tape holds it to the harness. There should be one to the right of the right hand horn and one to the left of the left hand horn.

The corresponding connector for it, is inside the cabin, by the heater console / fuse box area. At that point neither wire is energized and requires a switch to power them. If I recall properly, they are slaved to the parking lamps. That is they draw their power from the Tail / Side / Parking lamp circuit and via the Fog Lamp Switch feed it to the fog lamps and then to ground.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Well, I'm STILL having trouble finding the bullett connectors by the horns, and the wires for the switch.

the other problem would be to decide what kind of switch to use, or is there a designated switch for fog lamps on the 280Z?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Does the 280Z have wiring in place so you can install some driving/fog lights?

Yes, and no. The wiring was in place up to model year 1976, after that, it appears Nissan abandoned (for whatever reason) the idea of having fog lamps on the Z.

Wayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure on the 78's, definitely there in the 240's. Don't know why they wouldn't include it in the wiring harness.

To verify, look at the wiring harness that goes between the headlights and horns in the lower front of the car. You should see a pair of bullet plug pairs (1 male / 1 female) coming out of the wiring harness and then taped to the body of the harness. Usually a light blue vinyl tape holds it to the harness. There should be one to the right of the right hand horn and one to the left of the left hand horn.

The corresponding connector for it, is inside the cabin, by the heater console / fuse box area. At that point neither wire is energized and requires a switch to power them. If I recall properly, they are slaved to the parking lamps. That is they draw their power from the Tail / Side / Parking lamp circuit and via the Fog Lamp Switch feed it to the fog lamps and then to ground.

Hope this helps.

so does this mean, that all i'd need to do is intallan inline switch, etc and presto! foglamps? or is it a better idead to install your own wireing to the fusebox, etc?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The least you should do is to wire the switch to a hot fuse box pin with an inline fuse, if there isn't already an empty place.

This is not necessary when using the wiring in the 240's circuitry.

The 240's existing circuit is already powered and fused. All you are doing is connecting the fog lamps to the circuit and a switch to close the loop. Adding another wire would have power going in or out in unpredictable places.

Enrique

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the driving lamps are on a circuit with other loads, it would be wise to put it on a new circuit. I think it would be a good idea with the older wiring on the 240. Maybe not with relays, bit if it could be worked into the existing runs so it looks like it belonged there and without hacking up was is already there.

IMO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the driving lamps are on a circuit with other loads, it would be wise to put it on a new circuit. I think it would be a good idea with the older wiring on the 240. Maybe not with relays, bit if it could be worked into the existing runs so it looks like it belonged there and without hacking up was is already there.

IMO

Are you having target practice with your automatic starter's gun?

Check the wiring diagram and you'll see that it IS a separate circuit, it IS worked into the existing runs, AND it DOES belong there.

If you take precautions to NOT overload the circuit, you aren't hurting it.

Enrique

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 517 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.