I actually started with a wire wheel connected to my drill, that did a pretty good job of getting it started, then moved to 180 grit wet sandpaper, and just started working my way up.

i used a dremel to get into the difficult places.

One trick I found is when using a specific grit, always go in the same direction. Then when switching to the next higher grit, sand at 90 degrees. This way you always know that you have removed the scratches from the previous grit.

When you're done (at about 1200 grit), switch to rouge and a buffing wheel on your drill.

Then, finally, I followed that up with Mother's aluminum polish. Calling it a PITA is an understatement. I spent a couple of hours per night for about a week on each manifold. I attached a pic of one manifold midstream and the other waiting in line. FYI, this project took a solid couple of months on and off.

Wear gloves or you will have permanently grey fingers, and your fingerprints will be gone.

One more thing, the polished carbs are a backup set, not the ones in the engine bay picture (those are my daily driver carbs). I bought the polished carbs on ebay with the manifold for about $50, gives you an idea of the condition....

Edited December 8, 200915 yr by 260zCaliCar

You really need this kit.... http://www.eastwood.com/buffing/metal-buffing/buff-motors/ew-10in-buff-shop-kit-w-3-4hp-variable-ew-motor.html

Awesome price, great buffing motor, comes with a full kit including (6 compounds, 8 buffing wheels, face sheild, How-to-DVD, gloves, and a wheel rake.)

I have something similar (bits and peices over a period of time) but when I get the money, I'm all over that kit.

Here's some before and afters. The valve cover (from painted to stripped, to sanded to completely buffed in only 8 hours. Same with the front cover and oil pump. It's addicting and you'll find yourself buffing everything.

Check my gallory (page 5 and 6 ) for my carb polishing

Awesome work though, I did the same with my SU's and love 'em. They'll look right at home in your very clean engine bay.

Dave

Wow, you do some nice work, and that kit from Eastwood looks great. I get "daily deals" from Eastwood, and occasionally they send "20% off on orders over $75 plus free shipping". I think the next time that deal shows up in my email, I'll jump on it.

I agree, the results can be addicting.

Thanks you. And keep in mind that the small parts were done with a 1/2 HP bench grinder with 6" buff pads. And the valve cover and some of the front cover were done with the same 6" buffs on a 4" hand grinder. But you have to keep constant contact to keep the RPM's down.

I wanna grab anothe Unilite and polish it as well. We'll see.

Dave

The setup looks great. Reminds me of the Christmas season that I polished my balance tube and intake in the living room.

You guys do outstanding work!! They look great! What do you do to the finish once it is polished? Do you coat it with anything? I have wire brushed my manifold and it is now "brushed aluminum" and was wondering if ther is anything out there to help keep it looking nice.

Harry

I like to use Easwoods Extreme diamond clear. Hi temp and pretty good at chemical resistance. Which makes it great for the engine compartment.

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/clear-coats/ew-extreme-diamond-clear-8-oz.html

I havent done anything to the finish yet. I just keep it clean with windex or any streakfree cleaner. I will probably look into the Eastwood product.

P.S. I am gonna look into your headlight upgrade too, Zs ......

Good vid on polishing.

I would love to get Z's and 260zCaliCar's opinion on the technique. I like the sanding buff this guy uses instead of hand sanding for instance.

I love the greaseless sanding compounds from eastwood. Great for cut-in and definantly quicker than hand sanding. I use everything at my disposal, Sandpaper and a block, DA with aluminum oxide sanding paper, wet-sanding and the easiest for me is a 6" sisal (spiral sewn with sewn in rope or something) it's very strong and used for steel and Stainless) I use that with red or black compound for my cut-in to remove casting marks and heavy lines.

Then I switch to a standard spiral sew with red compound then swith to white. Then I go to a loose cotton with white then use only the loose buff for a final polish. Then I wash it in warm water with Dawn dish soap to remove all traces of compound. And then I can tell if I need to rebuff anything on the part.

His technique Is the right way. Breaking down the surface levels till you get to the solid, buffable surface. It's very time consuming so don't get into it unless you're in for the long haul.

If it's aluminum, and it's on my Z, it's probably polished.

Dave