Have to remember to K.I.S.S., I'm sure you know what that means. Everyone likes to jump to the most expensive conclusion while trouble shooting, even those giving the advice.

Did you lightly lube the bushing and the input shaft? Put the tranny in gear, and while handling the tranny, rotate the output shaft. This should get the splines to line up.

What did you use for the shifter bushings? You can also use door hinge bushing in the Help section of the auto store.

#38377(IIRC) is one number that will work, the other has an assortment of 4 sets of which 2 will work.

Edited December 21, 200915 yr by Darrel

Well, got it to go. It didn't take much. I think we were just tired the other night. We just loosened the bolts, supported the trans with a jack, pulled one bolt on the crossmember and then I used a screwdriver in the hole with the dowel and it slipped right in. Now we are looking for a driveshaft. The one we have has the non servicable ujoints that are peened in place at the factory. I'm wondering if a 280 z shaft will bolt in.

All '72-78 driveshafts are interchangeable, even the ones from an automatic. You don't want one from a '70-71, as they are about an inch shorter.

"The only other exception would be if you stumbled across one of the rare early Type A 5 speeds that were used in other parts of the world in '70-71 cars. Those would still bolt up, but would need a custom driveshaft. Chances of you finding one of those in the middle of the country are almost nil. (And if you do find one, I'd love to know about it.)"

Arne ,

I have ALL Z 5 speeds that have been used in Z cars since inception at my shop ,with the exception of the Datsun Comp Direct drive 5 speed .I also have the Late European Steel Synchro boxes as well as the First ever Datsun Competition Close Ratio with overdrive that has a flange output .I even have many A Style boxes with steel and brass synchros in stock .For them I have a NOS set of middle close ratio gears set also .

I have several ZX late 5 speeds both 80 and the 81-83 with the different OD's .

I'm not sure yet ,but I plan on possibly using the the late style European trany on my Series 1 car and a hybrid late trany with .85 overdrive in my 500 + hp 280 Z .

Are you looking for any of these tranies ?

Steve

Are you looking for any of these tranies ?

Not actively right now, Steve. But I've been keeping my eyes open here in the NW for a while now. It's on my list of things that might be nice for my car, but not a huge priority yet. I may shoot you a PM for details, possibly after the first of the year.

Just and update. Taylors been driving the car for a couple weeks now with the 5 speed.

We've been fighting an electrical problem draining the battery. Finally realized the worklight under the hood was on:stupid: We had tried the light several times-everyone just has to play with it - and it never worked so I didn't know which way was "on" with the switch. Now we know.

We had a driveshaft built so we won't have to deal with non-serviceable u-joints anymore. My son made a bushing for the shifter from alum. tubing I had. May not last too long but is easy to get to later.

We reused everything from the original trans./ clutch fork, throwout bearing, shifter and speedo gear. I would have liked to replace the clutch but the money ran out. It works really well. It seems about the same in low gear although I haven't driven the car much so it could be geared a little different. 5th drops it about 400 rpm= much nicer now.

Thanks to all on here who helped with good info. Finally above freezing here so hope to get more done soon.

Regarding that work lamp, it won't drain the battery if the bulb is not working no matter the switch position. If there was a short in the lamp housing you'd blow a fuse. A simple way to discern a small drain is to connect a 12v light between the battery - terminal and the negative cable lead (lead has been lifted off the battery for this purpose). The ignition and lights MUST be in the off position! Also pull the interior lamp so it doesn't affect the test (it could be your problem as well). The light will glow faintly if there is any current draw. The brighter the light, the higher the drain. Now, pull one fuse at a time (replace it if nothing changes at the light). The light will dim or go completely out when you've found the suspect circuit. From there it's a matter tracing out the wiring to the problem. Clocks and radios (with memory) will draw a minimal current causing the light to glow slightly. A digital volt-ohm-meter can also be used to measure the current draw but I chose to offer the old school approach.

Arne, I had an early type-A 5 speed in my 240Z for a few years. It was installed out in California at a shop focused on BRE/Interpart pieces back in the very early 70's. I believe it came out of a roadster originally. Anyway, it was a decent transmission (rebuilt a few years past) with great gearing but you could outshift it everytime in spirited driving. It used those infamous smooth steel syncro rings with little surface area to allow the gears to mesh smoothly on a hard shift. I finally swapped it out for a KA conversion. The new trans is smoother and quieter.

Edited January 13, 201015 yr by ezzzzzzz

eezzz, I'll have to try that. He's been good since we found the light on. The po really screwed with the wiring on this car so I am sure I will find more to fix.