Pretty much anything I've driven thats around the age of my '70 240z usually requires a stand on the pedal to slow it down. The 68 F100 I borrowed comes to mind. While I'm not sure why this is exactly, I'd like to lighten the effort on my Z car to make it feel like more modern brakes, which is better for the autocross track.

The master cylinder on my Z works - there is no drop in idle when the brakes are pressed, and when the car is shut off the pedal becomes waaaay heavier like it should since there is no vaccuum. So I think its okay there. The pedal seems to have a lot of slop (freeplay) before I feel the resistance and subsequent stopping forces. There is a light on the dashboard that illuminates red, "BRAKE", when I reach this point in the pedal travel. I'm not sure why thats there, unless if its to warn me that the pads need replacing or something.

I'm pretty sure the slop is because the pads and shoes are worn, but there is no squeeling or the like yet. I'll definetly replace in the spring. But I'm just wondering what else I can do to help make the whole braking system feel "safer". I think the brakes that come on this car are adequate enough for its sub-2400 lb weight.

I dont really care about how "original" the parts are, I'm totally willing to upgrade whatever I need to, I just don't want to spend a bajillion dollars.

Edited December 17, 200915 yr by Z-Luke

There is a reason for the red BRAKE light coming on. It's not an error on your Z's part. Start with checking your brake fluid, and bleeding your brakes.

What does the red brake warning mean? Check brakes?

I fully intend to replace the pads and lines (which will require bleeding), I'm just getting together a shopping list

Edited December 17, 200915 yr by Z-Luke

Early Z's like your '70 do not have a low-fluid sensor, so the red light coming on means that there is a failure in the hydraulic system. Most likely one half of your brake system is not working. You will need to do some troubleshooting to figure out which half and why.