stub axle removal +

[AnthonyG]

i need to replace the u joints on my half axles and the axles won't come out.

1976 280z, R200, 5speed (swap from a 77z)

I have new bearings and seals, and have parts for a drum >disc conversion as well as new shocks and bushings i want to install, but the u joints are priority as they have alot of play. the seal on teh driver side of the diff also needs replacing soon.

the 8 bolts holding the half axle on the diff end and wheel end come off fine, but then the axle won't budge. nothing shoudl be holding it in now

what options do i have, and how much does the level of difficulty go up for each?

also do i want to save the drum parts intact (since i dont have to cut the backign plate to remove as im replacing bearings too) in case they are desired. they are the original single sided piston design, and work fine... /begin rant - though why anyone would want drum brakes is beyond me. they are the most annoying things to adjust/inspect/replace .../end rant

Edited January 13, 2010 by AnthonyG
mis-type - removed a few pronouns to be clearer

[GreenZZZ]

Make sure you grind off the peened portion of the nut on the stub axle very carefully with a dremel. Otherwise you end up with hosed axle. The torque on the nut is pretty intense. Lots of different methods... This one is good.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

If the big-o-air-tool doesn't work, what I do is install the strut in a wheel with a tire on it. Two people. One with a 4 foot bar sitting with feet on the wheel pull hard on the bar and the other guy standing on the wheel whacking on with a 2 or 5 pound hammer. It's pretty amazing when two people pulling on a 4 foot bar doesn't remove a bolt!

If you don't "de-peen" the nut, you end up with an f'd up stub axle like what I found in my car... Notice the dremmeled nut in the bottom right and bad threads in the axle on the left.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32730&ppuser=14083

[AnthonyG]

thanks for the warning. i hope to be that far soon. I'm stuck earlier in teh process where the half axles wont come out... (i wonder if i am using hte correct term.) the part that is stuck is between the diff and wheel with 2 u joints. like a primitive cv axle...

oh, i found your thread about the stub axles too. i starting to think a trip to the local car repair place to remove and reinsert a few of the bushings and bearings will save me alot of pain.

[ezzzzzzz]

The halfshafts (axles) are merely siezed due to rust. Find a good piece of brass or aluminum bar stock about 1/2" or better in diameter and long enough to hold onto. Steel would work but it will mar the flange pretty good too. Use it and a BFH to wack the crap out of the axle flange at either end. A couple of good jolts should have it loose for removal.

Edited January 14, 2010 by ezzzzzzz

[AnthonyG]

well the more force approach finally worked. i had to use a yard -ish long crow bar and piece of copper pipe to get it to budge. the copper pipe protected the parts.

[texasz]

Make sure you grind off the peened portion of the nut on the stub axle very carefully with a dremel. Otherwise you end up with hosed axle. The torque on the nut is pretty intense. Lots of different methods... This one is good.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

If the big-o-air-tool doesn't work, what I do is install the strut in a wheel with a tire on it. Two people. One with a 4 foot bar sitting with feet on the wheel pull hard on the bar and the other guy standing on the wheel whacking on with a 2 or 5 pound hammer. It's pretty amazing when two people pulling on a 4 foot bar doesn't remove a bolt!

If you don't "de-peen" the nut, you end up with an f'd up stub axle like what I found in my car... Notice the dremmeled nut in the bottom right and bad threads in the axle on the left.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32730&ppuser=14083

I could use a little more detail on "de-peening" the nut please. I have 3-4 sets I need to remove and started them soaking in PB Blaster yesterday afternoon and was going to go at them with the impact wrench today...that is until I read this post.

I'm in Cedar Park if it's something easier shown than communicated in text...plus we can talk Z cars and maybe I have some parts you want/need. Seriously though, just looking for more information on this before I damage something.

[Diseazd]

GreenZZZ......Excellent job of illustrating one of the most difficult jobs to be performed on the Z!

Edited January 17, 2010 by Diseazd
punctuation

[GreenZZZ]

GreenZZZ......Excellent job of illustrating one of the most difficult jobs to be performed on the Z!

And the most difficult award goes to.... Outer lower control arm bushings!!!

[AnthonyG]

you know... maybe i'll just cut the backing off. there isnt anyhting wrong with the bearings, just thought i'd replace them since i was in there anyway.

what happens if those bearings fail anyway? anyone have stories?

[GreenZZZ]

what happens if those bearings fail anyway? anyone have stories?

As soon as they start clunking, I pull them out. Waiting till they blow out and shoot an axle sounds bad bad bad

[Babalouie]

Here's what I use. Big long section of square tube, drilled to fit over 2 wheelstuds. Plus a 3ft long breaker bar slipped over the socket set t-handle

The breaker bar is just 2 lengths of hardware-store square tubing slipped one inside the other (with only one bar it flexed too much)

It cracks the axle nut loose fairly easily with so much leverage. This was the MkI attempt by the way

[Babalouie]

I could use a little more detail on "de-peening" the nut please. I have 3-4 sets I need to remove and started them soaking in PB Blaster yesterday afternoon and was going to go at them with the impact wrench today...that is until I read this post.

To remove the peened nut, I've been lucky in the past, there has been enough of the collar of the old nut sticking out, that I've been able to use a pin punch to gently work out the dent in the nut.

Method #2 (if the above is impossible) is I use a dremel to "thin" the steel where the nut is peened. Then I use brute force to undo the nut, and the thin metal over the peened spot will just pop out as the axle nut comes out. Don't cut all the way thru the nut and you won't damage the axle threads.

Edited January 19, 2010 by Babalouie