New interior light door switch not working

[Stike]

I replaced the 40 year old, non working door switches today. the passenger side works fine but the drivers side is puzzling. At first it didn't work until it was inserted back into the opening. Shortly after the door open buzzer started, never knew there was one. Went back to check after sundown and now the drivers side switch and door buzzer don't work. The passenger side has no issue. Any ideas?

[EScanlon]

Possible lack of proper contact at the body of the switch on the door pillar; remove the switch and using a small wire brush, clean out the contact area for the switch. It might be just part of the hole that needs cleaning up, or it might be that you need to make sure the body of the switch actually contacts the sides of the hole.

It could also be that the wires slipped off the back of the switch.

FWIW

E

[MikeW]

At first it didn't work until it was inserted back into the opening.

There's only one wire going to the switch. The barrel switch itself is grounded in the hole in the door jamb and the switch is normally open when the door is closed and the switch is closed when the door is open. It won't work at all hanging out. As E already explained you may just need to clean the hole to expose clean metal. You could also probably use a rolled up piece of sandpaper if you don't have a brush that will fit.

[EScanlon]

Subtle difference between the right and left door switches. The LEFT side (or actually the DRIVER'S side since it also appears on RHD vehicles) has 2 connections in the 240 (at least the 71, and 72, not sure later or earlier).

That's why you the key in buzzer works ONLY when the driver's door is open and not when the passenger's door or the Dome light is on. There is a small separation washer on the switch plunger itself.

2¢

E

PS: Look at the Black Dragon catalog page:

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?Page=114

The earlier version (240) LH switch (Driver's side) is NLA, which is why you use a later version. If memory serves the later version had THREE connections (one is a starter interlock/seat belt?).

Edited January 15, 2010 by EScanlon

[Zs-ondabrain]

One is the dome light and the other 2 are for the interlock/buzzer operation. Found that out on my 260Z as I am replacing both switches with aftermarker ones. And I also completely removed the interlock, therefore bypassing the 2 wires.

Dave

[geezer]

I just noticed a huge boo-boo in the wiring diagram in the 1970 FSM. I would be curious to see how the left hand door switch wiring is shown in the 1971 FSM or in the S30 Supplement manual's wiring diagram, that was issued in 1972 to correct/clarify the previous FSM wiring diagrams. The '70 FSM wiring diagram actually shows the ground derived from the left hand door switch going to the positive post of the ignition coil as well as the tachometer. The only part they got right was the ground supplied when the door is opened to the buzzer, via the steering lock switch.

Anyhow

In the Parts Catalog & the Microfiche two distinct switches are shown for use up to 12/71:

Right Hand - 25360-89901

Left Hand - 25360-89910

From 01/72:

There is not a Right Hand listed; only Left Hand - 25360-89910 is shown. I take that to mean the same switch is used for both sides. Am I correct in this assumption?

Before I researched it or knew better, what they gave me at the Nissan dealer is shown below in the pic. Both switches are the same. They supply a ground when the door is opened. The second lead is soldered on the casing, so it provides a constant ground. The subtle difference Enrique mentioned doesn't exist on this set. I guess they are not going to work "correctly" in my '70. Stike's '71 needs the same switches as I do, in order to work as designed.

Which leads me to ask, Stike, what are you replacing yours with?

Edited January 15, 2010 by geezer
added title for future search purposes

[mlc240z]

possibly might help, this is what i found worked on mine

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34954

[Stike]

Which leads me to ask, Stike, what are you replacing yours with?

I used Nissan parts I ordered from MSA. The right and left switches were different, right side had one wire and the left had two. The switches are identical to the ones I removed. I'll try cleaning out the mounting hole.

[geezer]

I used Nissan parts I ordered from MSA. The right and left switches were different, right side had one wire and the left had two. The switches are identical to the ones I removed. I'll try cleaning out the mounting hole.

You should have no issue with the actual switches then. I found the Nissan part number for the RH switch - 25360-B6000. Good to know it's available from MSA.

[Stike]

Update, just put a fine cut file to the opening and it works now. Wonder how long until I disconnect the door buzzer?

Thanks all.

[Arne]

My buzzer (aka the squealer) is still connected, and will remain so until I get the ignition lock/key corrected so that the key can not be removed in any position. The buzzer serves as a good reminder that I haven't got it all the way in the Lock position.

But once I have that corrected, I'll disconnect it!