Power wire getting hot just before fuse block, HELP

[hogie]

Well after finally getting a warm day I was able to wash the car and back her out of the garage and try to get the carbs adjusted.

After Idling a while I randomly checked to see if the fuse box was warm as I hear those can be problematic. While checking it out I noticed the white with red stripe power wire was really warm at the connection shown in the picture. It is not warm near the battery or any where else that i can find on the harness. Where the electrical tape is the wire appears to be slightly pulled out of the connector.

I dont think it will be very easy to reattach this wire at the connector and make a more solid connection. I know that they have fix on atlantic z car club to replace the fusible link on a car. Can I do something similar on my 72? Would it be possible to just run a fused power wire directly to the fuse block and bypass the white/red factory wiring? Would this cause any charging circuit/ignition problems? Is that wire 8 gauge or 10?

Thanks

[ZCurves]

The Fusible Link is supposed to protect the circuit from a short, so adding an additional fuse would be redundant. I would first look at the advice given on the Atlantic Z Car Club site, then you could start looking for a short on that circuit. Get a wiring diagram and check the connections to make sure they are tight and clean. Remember, this wire carries a lot of AMPS so it is not out of the ordinary that it would "Warm" =but NEVER Hot.

Finally, For sure you should PM a member - Zs-ondabrain and get his thoughts. I am certain that he has seen this one before.

[hogie]

What I meant to come across would be the fused wire would run all the way to the fuse block entirely bypassing the fusible link. I could be wrong on this, but I dont beleive I have any shorts at all. I am not getting any sparks when attaching the battery and the fuses themselves are not getting warm. Oh and everything works that is hooked up so far.

I just think since the wire is pulled out a bit at this connection that there is more resistance than there should be and it is causing the heat. There really doesnt seem to be any warmth beyond this one connection.

Thanks

[Zs-ondabrain]

I would start with securing a much better connection. Heat is caused from resistance, resistance is caused from bad connections. If it's only warm only near the connection, then there lies the problem. Buy some De-Oxit and clean all the connections or replace the connector.

You can also replace the wire if you feel it neccesary but make sure to follow the wire precisely before doing so. Some of those power wires are tied in with others, inside the harness. Use the same or slightly larger gauge wire.

Dave

[hogie]

Thanks, I ran it for awhile last night after fiddling with teh connection and it didnt seem near as warm as before. I will definately try to get a new connector in there though as Fire is a bad thing.

[ezzzzzzz]

Dave is onto something. All cars suffer from poor connections over time. The wire you decribe feeds all the loads of the fuse box. I've seen many melted fuse boxes due to this problem. As suggested, lift the negative battery lead before doing anything else. Clean some connectors using the DeOx spray and some fine sand paper (where you can get to the contact surface). That white/red wire also connects to the back of the amp gauge. There are several connectors under the glovebox against the kick panel where the dash harness, front harness and rear harness all come together. You'll find that white/red wire connector there too. I'm sure I'm missing something like the main power to the ignition switch. Lastly, it would behoove you to wire in load relays for the headlights This will reduce the current load on your fuse box and increase light output dramatically. Dave can help you with that too. He sells some nifty harnesses for such things.

[John Coffey]

On a great many of the 240Zs I've worked on, that particular wire gets corroded internally near the fuse box. Look for green or white corrosion on the wire near the connector to the fuse box. if you see that, you need to cut that wire back to good copper and splice in a new length of wire and a connector. Also check the other end of the wire at the fenderwell regulator and at the alternator.

[hogie]

Ok I checked out the areas where you had mentioned. The connector at the fuse box itself is in great shape. So far (no heat build up there). The glove box area is not so pretty. At one point the wire at another connector there appears to have lit up.

I had actually forgot about that wire being a problem a long time ago. I had already spliced the wire back together at that connection. No heating problems there so far.

I will clean the alternator connections tommorow night. The battery cables are already new. 4 Gauge straight the motor motor mount or block (I can't remember which) and 4 gauge to the starter motor. I cleaned up the wiring harness ground connector just below the battery. If there are any other grounds that need attention I dont know about them.

I just flipped the contacts on the light switch the other night, but do intend to run some relays in addition. They work now, but appear weak compared to everything i have ever driven.

Thanks again...I should have insurance on it in the next couple of days. So it is getting to be time for the shake down run. Hopefully it will go well.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Just remember, My headlight upgrade harness is only $125 and will plug right into your 72'.

It will also reduce the amperage required by the fusebox, and is likely causing some of your overheating wire issues.

Dave