I just cant get windshield on, please advice

[geezer]

Enrique my friend, there is much you do not understand about this process and the impression I am getting is your mind is closed to anything that does not fit into the preconceived ideas that you have. My post stands as is. If you would like me to elaborate on the logic behind my methods, I will, but please, do me the courtesy of not quoting me out of context, in a feeble attempt to discredit my post. I believe that my statements were quantified as being an alternative method with logical benefits, which I briefly explained. I really can’t consider what others find easier unless it is also done properly.

Logic:

I know that it comes as no surprise to you that the windshield is a crucial part of the vehicle’s structure. Even as far back as 40 years ago, substantial research and development data had been accumulated and put into use, in the engineering and building of these cars.

It may seem unimportant or trivial to you but by installing the stainless trim strips before the assembly is seated correctly on the flange you are actually compromising the structural integrity of the car as designed.

If the trim strip is installed before the assembly is properly seated, how is it then possible to “apply adhesive to the entire periphery”, as instructed in the FSM? When built, you can bet this was a production process etched in stone, which was followed to the letter at Nissan. The adhesive has to be applied when the windshield assembly is centered in its relaxed, final installed position. “Adhesive” is a descriptive word in itself, which gives us a hint of its purpose. It is not described as sealant, although it did perform double duty to an extent. You would find it very interesting to see the “process control” sheets that are used and have been for as long as I can remember which cover every assembly process. A great deal of expense is incurred to develop the proper methods used. A lot of money was also invested to drum these preconceived ideas into my head and I’m just passing it on to you for free.

I really am not the least bit surprised what you tell me about the guy installing windshields for the Nissan dealership. I just feel sorry for the customers who never knew any better and believed his retoric.

The tool is really very simple and I actually believe it is not even needed. The picture is self explanatory. It is just slightly wider than the stainless strips, holds the “lips” in an open position and allows the trim to fall into place. The tool doesn’t come into contact with the bright surface at all. If the rubber has been sufficiently heated and lubricated, it can be installed easy enough with only a blunt fiber stick. The corners of the trim are the most difficult to finesse but still only as difficult as the flexibility of the rubber makes it.

As I started this post, referring to you as “my friend”, I truly do mean that and do also respect what you have to say, but in this case I am only trying to relay what I know and in the process hopefully prevent a broken windshield. You or anyone else can take it for what you think it is worth.

PS-We both put our pants on one leg at a time but I don't pull my zipper up until they are on and everything is positioned correctly.

Sorry buddy, couldn't help myself.

Edited January 19, 2010 by geezer
added friendly jab

[olzed]

KOALA as in Koala bear

[Reverend]

KOALA as in Koala bear

Yes i know, but there is story behind my nick wich i wont tell

What comes to windshield, i decieded not to install it but rather rely on professionals. I'd rather pay a bit than lose my nerves and break the whole thing

[rubrbulits]

I've been installing autoglass for 18+ years and here's what I know. Step #1 do this in a warm environment, not outside in driveway on a cold day! Step #2 set windshield on sturdy folding rack outside facing up. #3 install the gasket to the windshield starting at the two top corners so the gasket is installed evenly around the glass. #4 spray the rubber with a soap/water solution. #5 Now, start installing the stainless trim, I use a small regular screwdriver for the corners and the fiber stick for the rest. The corners are done last and yes, they can be a pain. Since it isn't installed in the car yet, you can grab the rubber and spread it apart easier as you work the trim into the groove. If the glass is in the car and settled in the pincweld you get no more flex causing the installation of the trim to be far more difficult, but not impossible. #6 Now that the trim is in the rubber, carefully flip the glass over on the stand and install the rope in the groove of the gasket with both ends meeting at the bottom center and overlapping each other about six inches and tape the excess rope to the inside of windshield. Cheap standard clothesline rope works best. #7 this step is up to you and here's why. Modern vehicle windshields are installed with urethane for structual reasons, but more importantly because of the airbags. The windshield is what keeps the airbags IN the car. If you had an airbag in a 71 240z and it deployed, The force from you hitting the bag would pop the windshield right out, glued in or not, the rubber gasket is the weak link. Any sealant or adhesive used in the rubber gaskets of the older cars was for sealing purposes only. If you choose to use a sealant you can use a product called "3m windo-weld sealer". or I just use my urethane. You want to lay about a 1/4" bead to the inner/ lower/ inside edge of the pinchweld, does that make sense? #8 now, soak the pincweld and the gasket with soapy water and lay the glass in the opening evenly. #9 put on some disposable rubber gloves and start pulling the rope. If you do this just right you will only pull a little of the glue through with the rope, sometimes none, and clean up will be fairly easy, or not. In my opinion, if you have a rust free clean pinchweld and a NEW rubber gasket, don't worry about using a sealant. However, NEVER EVER use silicone to seal anything on a car body. Silicone is corrosive and will eventually cause serious rust issues. This isn't meant to be a step by step instructional on glass installation. This is just basically how I would approach this particular windshield. I'm not taking sides here either.

[Darrel]

Koalia, get the windshield in yet?

[Reverend]

Not yet, i called to windshield shop and they said that "just use that rope" and i said that yes but can you come here to install my windshield "-you can do it yourself" they say. Gee thanks a lot, i was willing to pay for them but if they dont want money, ok. That guy also said that start from the bottom of the glass.. im confused As a sealant i use Würth black seal/glue, very messy. I think i'll have to sacrifice next saturday to this.

[IdahoKidd]

Hey Koalia, I'll come put it in for free, you pay the airfare,

[Reverend]

! Well i guess sometimes the most simple tasks are the most difficult. I just installed hatch inner weatherstrip (original) and it was SO easy to install compared to aftermarket.

[motorman7]

Part 1 (I will do this post in several parts because of pics)

I would like to preface this install by saying this is what worked for me. I used the summary by 'rubrbulits' as my step by step guide, but ended up making alterations. I installed a PPG windshield using new Black Dragon Rubber that was made in Thailand . The rubber was very pliable and fit to the glass well.

I started off with the rear hatch glass, because I felt that would be good to practice on. I put the rubber around the glass and put in the metal trim except for the corners. I figured I would put those on after the install. Everything fit well at this point. I then inserted the cord into the groove, all the way around. I overlapped the ends by about six inches. I taped the ends to the inside of the glass.

[motorman7]

Next, I put the sealant in the hatch groove as shown in the pics.I then made a tub of warm soapy water (dish soap) and soaked the rubber and glass edge with a rag. I then placed the soaped window and rubber onto the hatch.

[motorman7]

This is where things got tricky. I undid the rope on the inside and started pulling it along so that the inner lip would move over the pinchweld. This part on the inside was easy. The problem was getting the outside flap out of the groove and onto the flat portion of the hatch. The rubber flap wanted to fold over and stay in the groove where the sealant was. I had to try and lift it out of there and get it to lay flat on the flat portion of the hatch (hopefully that makes sense). Anyway, This did not work well. I would get 6" done, then lose 2"; 2" done then lose 5". After a frustrating 15 minutes of getting nowhere, I took out the metal trim.

With the trim out, things were way easier. I slid my thumb along the top edge to get the flap onto the body while pulling the string underneath. ( I could not do this with the trim in because it made the rubber too stiff) This worked just like a zipper and went pretty fast. After I was about half way around, the glass settled into place. The rest of the install was easy, I just zipped it in.

[motorman7]

The front windshield was the exact same process, no trim. The only difference was that I started at the bottom middle, moving towards the drivers side, and once I was half way around (at the top middle), it got a difficult to do my zipper technique. So I went back to the bottom middle and pulled the cord and zippered along the passenger side and then up. This went very smooth. Once I moved past the lower passenger corner, the windshield settled into place. The rest zipped easy. Once I was finished, my daughter cleaned the glass.

I put the trim in several days later. It was not that difficult, but again took a process. I slide the trim edge that was on the paint side into the groove. I used a small round shaft screwdriver to roll the glass side edge of the rubber over the trim.

My guess is that this process works well wih new rubber. The process may be different if an older gasket were used