I hate when things go wrong when you try to fix things up. I was replacing three connectors that were barely hanging on, everything went ok until i had to disconnect the connector to this valve and the whole switch pulled out. I pushed it back in and started up the car, not sure if this is my problem or if i wired one of the other plugs wrong, i did them just like my injectors and had no problems. The car runs super rich and stalls out :disappoin

Search for "EFI BIBLE", do a little light reading, and learn the function of the "AAR" valve and how it may relate to your running problem.

Also discover while reading the 61 or so posts on the topic that the majority of any used ones you may be offered no longer function very well due to advanced age; ie take care when buying one, if and when you decide you need it. In Alabama, with the exception of the weather this December and early January in most of North America, you may decide its not needed...

Jim

Think of it as a "high idle" of sorts, it simply bypasses the throttle plate allowing more air intake, you can just remove it completely, along with the coolant line base under it. It's been my experience it only works when the temp is below 20 degrees anyway. It's not related to your problems.

Edited January 18, 201015 yr by preith

In case you can not locate the EFI Bible via search...here's the url for it...

http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/EFI/

webdawg1

preith, if you say that me breaking this valve did not cause my over rich problem, maybe i wired one of these backward ?

Edited January 19, 201015 yr by kjphilippona

preith, if you say that me breaking this valve did not cause my over rich problem, maybe i wired one of these backward ?

Possibly, it's hard to tell from your pic but the first looks like the cold start valve, which would shoot raw fuel in if it's activated for some reason, just disconnect it.

Perhaps you have an open condition on the temp sensor (2nd pic) which is for the most part a variable resistor, that would cause an extreme rich if so.

Perhaps you have an open condition on the temp sensor (2nd pic) which is for the most part a variable resistor, that would cause an extreme rich if so.

Another thing to check is the Oxegen sensor line being grounded out. That will make it run super rich. Found that out once the hard hard way... :mad:

I figured it out by reading one of the old Bosche fuel injection books and borrowing an oscilloscope. It was a wiring problem... The O2 sensor is typically braided coax cable..

No oxygen sensor on a 77.....inadvertantly switching the thermotime switch and temp sensor connectors would cause that problem.

Edited January 19, 201015 yr by sblake01

Thanks guys i will check things out tomorrow. Here is a better pic before i replaced the connectors. I was so careful to align the connector the same way and mark the wires :disappoin

sblake01 when you said that, i had to run out in the cold with a flashlight and :stupid:, that's just what i had done. That does not fix my AAR, those things are expensive $109 at Black Dragon, what do i have to do to remove it and the heat block and bypass it ?

No oxygen sensor on a 77.....inadvertantly switching the thermotime switch and temp sensor connectors would cause that problem.

I was going to suggest too but it's been so long (10 years) I couldn't remember!

sblake01what do i have to do to remove it and the heat block and bypass it ?

Just remove all hoses and cap off the vacated nipples on the throttle body somehow. I just installed a breather filter on the valve cover.

IIRC the coolant lines feed off the t-stat housing, you can simply remove and block off using a 1/4" NPT plugs

You can also remove the dashpot - the larger disk shaped unit closest to the distributor. That just holds the throttle plate open a bit during shifts for emission purposes. Keep in mind if you do have to emission test the car you may want to leave this on, but the AAR you can remove regardless.

Thanks, i'll give that a try