=Enigma= Posted February 2, 2010 Share #13 Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) The L28's were fuel injected and therefore did not have a mechanical fuel pump so you either have an earlier head or someone bored out the port where it mounts and also installed a fuel pump eccentric lobe on the camshaft to drive the arm of the pump. In any event, they are basically all the same and any one for a 70-74 will work.By the way, I believe some of the early mechanical fuel pumps were prone to springing an internal leak that resulted in fuel flowing into the front cover and hence polluting the oil. Do you think this was the cause of your fuel/oil pollution? Edited February 2, 2010 by =Enigma= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brattesani Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share #14 Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) I really hope it is the cause. Alot of fuel got into the oil. It is way over full on the dipstick now. Gonna go buy the pump today, will report back. Thanks guysupon closer inspection of the pump it seems to be an original. Further supporting the claim of it failing Edited February 2, 2010 by brattesani Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisZ Posted February 2, 2010 Share #15 Posted February 2, 2010 Do not start that engine before you have changed the oil and oil filter !!!...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brattesani Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share #16 Posted February 5, 2010 dont worry about startin it, its not been started since i found out.Ok so i got the new pump today, it took two whole agonizng days to get here, i go home ready to rock and roll and as soon as i touch the black pumP spacer t move it over from the old one to the new one it just falls apart! It was cracked and just needed a little help to fully break. Am i screwed and need to source another from a junkyard because im assuming i cant run the pump without it. Please advise. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted February 5, 2010 Share #17 Posted February 5, 2010 (edited) MSA or Black Dragon has them......get new gaskets (one on each side of spacer) while you're at it. Edited February 5, 2010 by Diseazd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brattesani Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share #18 Posted February 11, 2010 blah. so the spacer came today (new gaskets came with the pump). so i plugged it in, put my new oil and filter in (car has been draining for the last 3 days) and tried to go on my merry. but the car really sounds like it is not on all cylinders, loping idle, no power and smells really rich. I need to get a new plug gapper (i cant find mine anywhere, must of lost it during my recent move) and gap my new plugs. also. I noticed that one of my choke nozzles (on the bottom) is sticking all the way out. could this be dumping gas into my cylinders and making me run super rich? can somebody point me to a guide for unsticking this valve? thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted February 11, 2010 Share #19 Posted February 11, 2010 You need to push the nozzle all the way back up or your engine will exhibit the characteristics you just described. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weasel73240Z Posted February 11, 2010 Share #20 Posted February 11, 2010 also. I noticed that one of my choke nozzles (on the bottom) is sticking all the way out. could this be dumping gas into my cylinders and making me run super rich? can somebody point me to a guide for unsticking this valve? thanks in advance.Get the ZTherapy video. It'll be the best $20 you spend if you're gonna own a carb'd Z. If you have a stuck choke nozzle, it'll never run right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brattesani Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share #21 Posted February 13, 2010 ok so carb cleaner unstuck the cold start enrichment circuit, and the car still is doing the same thing. when you first start up the car, it runs alright but after 3-4 minutes, the idle starts to drop, and it will eventually die out, and it runs progressively worse until it just wont hold idle any more. sigh thanks for sticking with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbpdz Posted February 13, 2010 Share #22 Posted February 13, 2010 do you have a unisyn to sync the carbs, and are you sure the nozzles are going all the way back up?I had a sticky set in my 72, and after warm-up, would have to open the hood and reach under each carb and push them back into place (and it ran like a champ after that). Also make sure that the nozzle adjusters are set evenly, as well as your needles (and do the needles match, check the number). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhemi Posted February 13, 2010 Share #23 Posted February 13, 2010 (edited) Brattisani, is the car new to you and you dont have much driving time with it yet? Or, has the car run fine before this happened? If you have had extensive drive time with the car, and it ran fine, then something broke to cause this. The fuel pump broke and it dumped the gas into your oil pan - happens a lot when a mechanical pump breaks.Your post stating that you had to use cleaner to loosen the choke mechanism indicates to me that these carbs are in dire need of some work, or cleaning at the least!Are you running a fuel filter and if so, is it plugged or filthy? It sounds like you are getting plenty of fuel which would indicate that the filter is not the cause. If no filter, its possible that junk got into your carbs and could be hanging something up. Any chance that there is something amiss with your air cleaner? I am guessing not if you have been dinking with the carbs and have the air cleaner off. Too much gas indicates a choke problem, a float problem, a stuck slide in the SU case, an A/F mixture screw mis-adjusted, too large of fuel jet(s) or a blockage of some sort for air to NOT get in proberly. I know absolutely nothing about the SU's - I listed the above because they are common problems with carbs in general. Like Stevef72z, I have been running Weber's since 1977 and they have their own set of problems!You might want to ID your block and head. The block casting can be found on the driver side rearwards of the motor mount, the head casting ID will be on the passenger side just below and between the #2 and #3 spark plugs. While this wont help with your current problem, it might be beneficial to know down the road. I would be inclined to guess that you have a 240Z head E88 or E31 sitting on top of a N42 block. Edited February 13, 2010 by oldhemi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brattesani Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share #24 Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) ok update. also, when I started it up cold, it drove like a champ at operating temp for about 15 minutes driving around nothing wrong feeling great, so I pulled in my driveway, and realized I needed to hit the grocery store, so I turned it back on after about 48 seconds of it being off and it started hesitating and sputtering like it has been doing, weird huh? ps: choke nozzles have come unstuck so that is ruled out now.heres what I did:I gapped the plugs to .035, and put in one of those clear fuel filters to check the flow. at idle fuel just dribbles into the canister, looks normal, but when I rev it up the flow only increases slightly (bubbles come up as well, not at idle, only when im holding it at around 2000rpm, not froth, just bubbles). when I rev up the 350 v8 (mechanical fuel pump as well) in my other car, fuel gushes into the fuel filter, am I looking at a blockage most likely? thanks. Edited February 17, 2010 by brattesani Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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