I'm in the process of stripping the interior from my 1971 240Z and was planning on coating it with POR 15 to stop the small amount of rust I've discovered and prevent future decay. I was also going to paint the engine bay, wheel wells, and most of the surfaces facing the road with POR 15.

Do you all think this is a good idea? Is it overkill?

I'm planning on making this 240Z an all-purpose racecar (autocross, track, possibly rallycross) with car club meetups and mountain cruises the only other times I take it on the road besides race events.

See my earlier post here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37335

I think that it would be fine anywhere that is not going to show (e.g. Floorpans, Rockers, Doglegs, Underside...).

POR needs "tooth" to adhere.Putting it on over smooth surfaces wether it's paint or metal will result in it peeling off.

POR needs "tooth" to adhere.Putting it on over smooth surfaces wether it's paint or metal will result in it peeling off.

So... I need to rough up the surface?

It depends on what por15 product your using-but in the case of the rust preventative you need to follow the instructions or it will not adhere-though it will good for a while.

I think that it would be fine anywhere that is not going to show (e.g. Floorpans, Rockers, Doglegs, Underside...).

I like it showing on the suspension. Lots of fine examples on classiczcars. I got pretty jazzed about the idea from Dave and others and did mine up. To get the bite, I sand blasted everything... It took 2 4 oz cans of POR to do this job. I'm also going to have it showing in the battery tray area, underneath the master cylinder, most of the engine bay frame rails and across the lower part of the firewall/tranny tunnel. I read POR does well with brake fluid. hitting it.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32786&ppuser=14083

Not over kill at all. When I restored my 240 I did the entire inside tub with POR, then put sound insulation over the top. I also did the entire underside from the firewall back. Got into every nook and cranny. The POR dried fast and hard, doesn't leave brush marks, looks great.

I don't think I will have to worry about the metal for the rest of my lifetime!

Thanks for the replies, I'll go ahead with the original plan for sure (at a certain point it's all about peace of mind, right?).

I totally dig the way it looks on suspension (nice job!). I'll have to think about doing that too.

I finally got down to the bare metal last night using a wire wheel drill attachment. To celebrate I ordered my 1st batch of POR 15.

What about places like, in the event of dog leg replacement, coating POR on the inside metal faces of the wheel well, chassis and back of the dog leg before it's welded back together? Likely it would peel or evaporate where the weld bead goes, but would it be good to coat those faces too?

So... I need to rough up the surface?

Yes,this is in the instructions,which if followed,the product is the best thing out there for rust.

I've blasted trunk floors and then used POR & woven 'glass to seal the pin holes.

What about places like, in the event of dog leg replacement, coating POR on the inside metal faces of the wheel well, chassis and back of the dog leg before it's welded back together? Likely it would peel or evaporate where the weld bead goes, but would it be good to coat those faces too?

Absolutely. If you didn't get after the wheel wells while it was all opened up, you'd never be able to live with yourself... The horror...

Not overkill at all. We did the entire underside and all the suspension parts. The inside was ok so I left it stock except for the floors. I had very little rust and plan to keep it that way. HTH, Richard. PS sorry for the dust.