I'm thinking of installing a Pallnet custom fuel rail. I was wondering if I could remove the entire Cold Start Valve all together. I live in Southern California and i rarely ever start my car in weather lower than 60 degreees.

Would just like some input here. thanks

Why are you changing fuel rails?

just want to clean up the "spaghetti" on top of the intake manifold. i'm not really looking to booster performance or anything. just want a cleaner looking engine bay.

I live in Portland Oregon, fairly cold up here, and have been driving my car all winter with the cold start valve fuel supply disconnected. It just takes a 1/2 second longer to start but once it's going it's fine.

I will not be reconnecting it. I think that it may have been leaking a little.

The left over fuel supply line makes a good spot to install a fuel pressure gauge.

Thanks Zed Head. I'm not a mechanic, but after studying the diagrams of how the Thermotime, Auxillary Air Regulator, and Cold Start Valve work together. I've deduced that the entire setup equates to more fuel and more air at the start up.

With everything currently hooked up right now...i STILL need to give the gas pedal a little help to raise RPM for the first 15 seconds. This being said, i can either replace every part of of the system, or be gone with it and just warm up my car manually with my foot.

Or tap another hole off the new fuel rail.

The Pallnet fuel rails can be ordred custom to have extra taps on it for extra lines going to a cold start system. I might...."might" go this route, but it would mean a new valve (because mine is leaking) and a new air regulator...but at startup mine does not raid the idle speed with more air, so it must be broken. who knows... could be the thermotime as well.

I used to have a '75 in another warm climate -- central Texas. It was very hard to start when my cold start valve wasn't operating.