Pertronix Ignitor 1761 install and coil evaluation

[jwgarvey]

nice job akorna

[rventura]

Well, i'm in Portugal... I will try the Pertronix Ignitor. 280ZX parts are very rare...

[Travel'n Man]

Great thread - this is on my "to do" list this spring before driving season starts

[LBO730]

Has anyone done the ZX distributor swap specifically into a 75 280? I wonder if there would be a significant improvement as well.

Bryan

[soundmasterg]

The one caveat with using the Pertronix is to make sure to disconnect it if you leave the key on for long periods of time, such as if you are trying to troubleshoot some other electrical problem for instance. I burned out a Pertronix because I forgot about that advice from them and left it plugged in while working on some wiper issues with the key on for long periods of time. That said, the Pertronix works well and driveability is greatly increased with it.

Greg

[DoctorMuffn]

Just a comment open for feedback...

Several years back when I installed an ignitor into my distributor I didn't gap the rotor in relation to the pickup. In other words I just tightened down the two tapered philips screws into their countersunk holes. I mention that because I had a driveability problem upon installation: My revs were limited to 4k rpm.

I checked dwell and found it to be 59deg at first.

"What an efficient system," I told myself. "The magnets and the pickup are so precise they only shut the coil off for 1 degree to allow spark and then immediately turn it back on to really soak up the juice." The lead for my meter must have been poorly connected, because when I rechecked I found the dwell to be only 21 deg (much lower than Datsun's spec of 35-41 for my '73 manual trans S30). I put in my old rotor and found a similar dwell; this was the second ignitor I had purchased (the first one I screwed up the tape with a feeler gauge). Anyway...

I tried several things including reinstalling the points, using the old pickup with the new rotor, the new pickup with the old rotor, bypassing the ballast resistor, etc. Ultimately, I sent in my dizzy with new ignitor/rotor installed to have the folks at Pertronix up the dwell. They brought it up to 27-29ish at which point it would rev out. I tell the story not to have my problem diagnosed but because I'm curious what dwell your ignitors are coming out of the box with.

Oh... And I just had an interesting breakdown today after a long hot day and a car meet/cruise. I won't go on with that story, but I will ask what the expected longevity of these ignitors is?

And what if I'm bypassing the ballast?

I suspect the primary (or maybe even secondary ignition) circuit for three reasons:

-The cut-out that resulted in temporary stranding to the side of the road was at 2k rpm and it was a complete ceiling on the engine's revolutions. In other words it was a clean and complete cut-out

-I have been going over my carbs for the last two weeks setting the float levels, balancing, and fine-tuning the nozzles which I finally nailed early this morning due to an epiphany I had last night (reading the directions in an SU carb rebuild kit helped).

-Finally, the problem went away (intermittency) and I drove 25 miles home varying the engine speed from idle to 4k rpm (cruise on the frwy was 3.5k, 70-75mph).

Any thoughts?

Edited March 21, 2010 by DoctorMuffn
I'm ocd about grammar and spelling... I'm still not sure if you understand me.

[Arne]

Several years back when I installed an ignitor into my distributor I didn't gap the rotor in relation to the pickup. In other words I just tightened down the two tapered philips screws into their countersunk holes. I mention that because I had a driveability problem upon installation: My revs were limited to 4k rpm...

...I found the dwell to be only 21 deg (much lower than Datsun's spec of 35-41 for my '73 manual trans S30). I put in my old rotor and found a similar dwell; this was the second ignitor I had purchased (the first one I screwed up the tape with a feeler gauge). Anyway...

I tried several things including reinstalling the points, using the old pickup with the new rotor, the new pickup with the old rotor, bypassing the ballast resistor, etc. Ultimately, I sent in my dizzy with new ignitor/rotor installed to have the folks at Pertronix up the dwell. They brought it up to 27-29ish at which point it would rev out. I tell the story not to have my problem diagnosed but because I'm curious what dwell your ignitors are coming out of the box with.

OK, this information is VERY interesting to me. I fought with the 4000 RPM rev limit after installing my Pertronix for several weeks of testing. I actually emailed back and forth with Pertronix about this, they were trying to pin it on the 3.0Ω Pertronix coil. I finally worked my way around the issue by re-installing the original 1.5Ω factory coil and resistor, and making certain that the Ignitor was receiving line voltage (pre-ballast) on the red wire. Doing this allows my engine to rev out properly. I have not been able to get there using the 3.0Ω coil in any config.

I don't recall that I ever checked the dwell angle after installing the Ignitor though. That could explain a lot. If mine is also too low, I may try slotting the lower hole to adjust it myself. I'd really prefer to be able use a new coil instead of the 39 year-old original.

Edited March 22, 2010 by Arne
typo correction

[DoctorMuffn]

Yeah, Arne, last night I read your post in one of the older threads from last year I think. Check your dwell and let me know what you find.

I'm debating purchasing a remanned dizzy and new module (duralast brand) from autozone for a collective ~$325 to be done with this, but that's for another thread.

Sorry to hi-jack, akorna.

So what dwell does everyone else get with their pertronix ignitor?

[akorna]

I have had no problems with the Pertronix Ignitor since the install chronicled in this post

Regarding the dwell - when I set my points to the factory specs (0.016-0.020), I would get about a 24-28 degree dwell. In order to get to the factory spec of 35 degrees, I would have to go with a gap of 0.012-0.014. I noted when installing the Pertronix that the dwell was the same as with the factory spec gap - about 24-28 degrees.

[DoctorMuffn]

Hmmm... That's odd. I think I played with moving the pickup closer and further away from the rotor with no significant change. I'll probably start a new thread to get more responses. Thanks, akorna, and sorry if I hi-jacked a bit.

Edited March 22, 2010 by DoctorMuffn

[Arne]

I'm debating purchasing a remanned dizzy and new module (duralast brand) from autozone for a collective ~$325 to be done with this, but that's for another thread.

Got to thinking about this plan, and after reviewing my notes I'm not sure that the ZX ignition is the answer. Besides the issue with the aggressive advance curve of the ZX (which can be overcome), I had the same problems - generally at 4000 RPM - with the ZX. My fear is now that if your car isn't happy with a Pertronix, it may be equally unhappy with a ZX. Might be worth waiting a bit before dropping that kind of cash on something that might not be an improvement.

[Z-Luke]

I decided to add to this thread instead of create a new one. I just finished installing Pertronix into my Z the other day, and I'm doing it one step at a time so if it fails I know the point of failure. Thats why I don't have the new coil in yet. So my set up right now is strictly a points-replacement set up running on the stock coil and resistor.

Install was a real no brainer. You just screw in the two screws into their countersunk holes and put the grommet in the obvious spot. I ran my wires the longer way round so they wouldn't get pinched or bent. I had to grease up the shaft of the dizzy to fit the magnets on, it was a very tight fit. The pickup was not touching the tape, but barely. The wires were long enough to run to my coil without needing addtional crimping or splicing.

I don't know what I was expecting, but starting the car with the pertronix setup and driving it felt almost exactly the same as when the points were properly adjusted. I have carb issues preventing me from properly "unlocking" the potential of this igniter I'm sure, but it seemed to run smoother and easier with the pertronix installed. It starts about the same.

I was hoping that rubbing block wear on the points is what was causing me to have to advance the nuts off the distributor to run the car in any sort of decent way. Turns out I still have to advance it all the way, and I can still take the bolt out and advance it past the maximum a long ways before it reaches maximum RPM. I have no timing gun, nor any timing marks anywhere visible on the car to set timing with anyway, so I have to go by ear and by vacuum.

All in all, thumbs up to easy install and good working order. I've only tried up to 4500 rpm so far but it was pulling it well up to there. The only reason I don't try any higher is because when I tried to with the points, there would be a massive afterfire explosion at 5000 rpm, and I'm worried about banana-ing the muffer.