The issues with your advance setting sound like sticky advance weights which do not extend all the way (or not at all in the worst case). If the exhaust knock took place in overrun, then your vacuum advance might be sticky or there is a problem with the vacuum supply. A timing light is always a good thing to have at hand, i wonder why there are no timing marks on your engine, though.

Today I installed the 3.0 Ohm Pertronix FLAMETHROWER coil. All I did was take the igniter RED + wire off of the resisted side of the resistor and move it directly onto the new coil. All other wires were swapped 1-for-1 to the new coil.

Everything works, hard to tell if there is any improvement, but the spark leaps HUGE DISTANCES so I can probably increase the gap. Any peeps wanna chime in on the best gap for the pertronix + flamethrower setup?

I now ceiling at 5500 rpm, where peak power should be. This is a little higher than I was getting with points. I think it's a fuel metering issue as now my ignition is completely and entirely replaced.

As for the advance problem, I think I'm going to leave it. I put the dizzy at over-advance without the screw in a little past where max allowable is on the plate, and during acceleration I heard the dreaded tinks of doom. I think where my dizzy is at for max advance is a good safe setting for now. I don't think it's causing my lack of rev-out.

Hello,

Z-Luke can you post some pictures of your instalation, please?

I'm going for that setup.

My Z is a 3 Automatic Transmission, is there a problem changing points to Pertronix ignitor + 3.0 Ohm Pertronix FLAMETHROWER coil?

I going for the 5speed manual tranmission, but not for now...

Here is the wiring setup for the Pertronix conversion. I have no experience converting a distributor for an automatic 240Z so maybe someone who did this can chime in.

Its a dual point...

thanks foir this thread and pics helped me a ton with my install

You deserve an award for this article...I thank you so much as the word picture and the actual pictures were perfectly clear and concise. The one picture I would have liked to have had to wrap a bow on your write-up was the connection with the resistor and the coil. I've read other write-ups that state to leave the original wire hook ups on the coil/resistor and that doesn't make sense to me since you disconnect the wires to the condensor and points, so what function do they add keeping them connected? I also followed your advice and left the condensor on as I was somewhat timid in altering my 71 Z with anything but original parts--but as you state it would take nothing to return it to original points etc. Again, thank you...awesome.

Anyone knows what is the gap between the green tape magnet and reader on the pertronix ignitor module?

How hot should the petronix 1.5 coil get during idle? Mine is so hot you cannot leave your hand for more than 2 seconds. Is this normal?

2 hours ago, 72 Datsun 240z said:

How hot should the petronix 1.5 coil get during idle? Mine is so hot you cannot leave your hand for more than 2 seconds. Is this normal?

Is it being used with a Pertronix Ignitor?  What are the details of the whole ignition system?  Coils should not get that hot.

Pertronix 40511 1.5 ohms coil, 1761 module and stock ballast resistor 

Have you checked resistance through the ballast resistor?  Its purpose is to reduce the current through the coil so that it doesn't get too hot.

Disconnect it and measure resistance from one terminal to the other.  It should be 1.6 ohms.  Maybe somebody shorted the terminals and it's not correct.  Buena suerte!     (Thank you Google Translate).