Fusebox issues... Trying to MSA upgrade.

[fiveleaf]

One headlight works, both hi-beams. I rebuilt the switch to no avail.

Ordered HLH and PLH (no taillights either) from Dave, as well as the MSA fusebox upgrade for the 72' (short pigtail, I believe).

This is supposed to be a "Plug and play" upgrade, and would be... but I have an extra wire from the orginal fusebox. It is possible that the previous owner tried to mod the OE fusebox to prevent a meltdown. I believe this z came with a halogens, and at one point had a prettty nice sound system.

Whatever it is, no meltdowns running halogens all night accross Canada.

The "extra wire" comes from the rear of the fusebox, and is connected to a metal bridge, spanning one side of the (bottom right) three fuses. It almost looks professional.

This wire looks about 12ga. It's noticeably thicker than the others that connect to the fisebox. White with a red stripe.

I took a bunch of pictures, they will come when the camera-computer cable shows up.

At any time was a bridge used in these fuseboxes?

Should I try to follow the wire into the console?

Was there a common earlier attempt to make these fuseboxes more 'stable' before the MSA upgrade?

Thanks guys!

Edited February 21, 2010 by fiveleaf
add photos

[Curtis240Z]

Yes bridges are used in the fuseboxes. The white with red stripe is a main power lead that is connected separately from the plastic multiconnectors.

[fiveleaf]

I guess that would explain the little metal clamp-screw on the right side of the fusebox, and the hole I can now see drilled into beside where the other wires come out.

Cool. What a great site. I had the whole garage scratching their heads, when all it took was 20min on classicz.

Edited February 17, 2010 by fiveleaf

[Zs-ondabrain]

One headlight works, both hi-beams. I rebuilt the switch to no avail.

Ordered HLH and PLH (no taillights either) from Dave,

Little confused on that one. "No taillights either" means what.

The PLH powers the Dash lights, Side markers, front markers (under the bumper) and the taillights. Are your taillights out but dash lights work?

As for the headlights.... Have you changed the bulb out yet, for a known working bulb? If you have Hi beams on both, and low beam on one, the other is probably bad -OR- the red/black wire on that bad bulbs socket is loose or bad.

Fill me in. I back up my products and am happy to help when I can.

Dave

[fiveleaf]

Dash lights, front markers (under the headlights), and front side markers work. Taillights and rear markers do not.

All bulbs in the headlights are new; I get one low-beam and two high. Tried to clean up the interconnects by the grille/airdam awhile ago... had one hi-beam and two low for awhile, they it switched back.

TS and brake lights are fine.

I believe the talilight issue is a bad/loose connector in the "above the passenger's feet" area. I have played with this before to get the talilights to work. They then worked intermittently for awhile. Not anymore...

I'll install this fusebox right now and see if it makes a difference. All of these "new" products are upgrades, so I'm happy even if I don't get these problems fixed after installing em.

Edited February 17, 2010 by fiveleaf

[Zs-ondabrain]

Yep, sounds like the Green/white wire is loose or needs to be replaced. You can run a test wire from the green/white wire (any of them in the rear, likely use the sidemarker wire on the P-side) to the front connector in the upper kick panel area. This will tell you if the short or bad connection is between those 2 areas.

As for the bad bulb, I would remove the headlight in question, use a test lead on both ends of the headlight pigtail (between the headlight and front radiator area) and wiggle the hell out of it. That's what I would start with.

Like anything on a Z, it's all a process of elimination,

Dave

[fiveleaf]

That fusebox is too easy.

I remember that white-green wire. I'm sure that's the problem. I'll connectivity test it with the other side. I remember this being a real pain to try to clean (the pigtail that holds the green-white, under the psngr area). If it's the issue, I'll probably end up snipping and connecting around it 'until I can find a replacement pigtail'.

I had the car on a hoist awhile ago, headlights hanging, I looked at the front pigtail and it was grossly corroded. I cleaned it up with no result. I am going to look back to the combo switch, this time using the Repair Guide.

We'll see how those two do later tonight.

[Zs-ondabrain]

I can tell you now that it's NOT the switch. It's obviously doing it's job. If it wasn't, you wouldn't see ANY lights in that Parking light circuit come on. As it's only 1 wire coming out of the switch. Same for the Headlights. So the issue is past the switch.

Let us know what you end up with to give you good results.

Check your messages.

Dave

[fiveleaf]

Driving to the shop (at night), I blew the brake and headlight fuses at once. I didn't realize how hard it is to see the road with no lights until today.

I did both switch again, just because after reading the guide, I realized I missed the proper terminals.

I now do not have brake lights. TS and 4-way's work in the back.

Tested the Green-white wire under the passenger seat (taillights), no current when the lights are on. So my problem is further inward...

Following the wires forward (through the firewall), I bumped an electeic interconnect near/on the starter motor, gave the distinct crack/spark of a battery short-circuit. I didn't think much of that (except to disconnect the batt. and tape it up [fix later]) until the shop closed, 20min later.

After the car didn't start, I had enough time to look at the starter's connection to the batt, and check all fuses, before pushing it into a parking spot outside the shop. Bad car. Go sleep outside.

I do not believe this 240 has a fusible link. Might actually be speaker wire.

10,000A fusible link... I should change that. I'm thinking an inline fuse (like for car audio).

In the meantime, can a starter motor die from a short-circuit?

Edited February 19, 2010 by fiveleaf

[fiveleaf]

Dave, you really must love this old jap car. Not only share/collect knowledge, but improve upon the old technology and help advance the whole 'z' community.

So this is where I take seperate post to publically thank "Zs-ondabrain".

For understanding when the first cheque didn't arrive.

For having my order complete, and shipped, about three days after his parts arrived. There was a slight delay for parts (his supplier's roof caved in) -- because of this, he shipped express post at his cost, without asking.

I purchsed his products for both an upgrade and possible problem fix (to the issues above). When he realized that the upgrade would likely not fix my problem, helps me find a solution through both this site and emails.

He also offered, after reading about my corroded headlight pigtails, to make a new "stock headlight wireing kit".

"3pin connector for the headlight bucket, 3pin connect in front of the rad, vinyl sleeving to cover the wires [paraphrase]"

I was going to wait until after my current problems went away to post this, but seriously? How great is it that there's such great people involved in keeping these cars alive... and willing to help the green guys (like me) put theirs together? Your efforts make me feel guilty for thinking of driving during the salty winter. Thank you.

Anyways, I really want to rip the dashboard off now.

Edited February 19, 2010 by fiveleaf

[Zs-ondabrain]

Driving to the shop (at night), I blew the brake and headlight fuses at once. I didn't realize how hard it is to see the road with no lights until today.

I did both switch again, just because after reading the guide, I realized I missed the proper terminals.

I now do not have brake lights. TS and 4-way's work in the back.

Tested the Green-white wire under the passenger seat (taillights), no current when the lights are on. So my problem is further inward...

Following the wires forward (through the firewall), I bumped an electeic interconnect near/on the starter motor, gave the distinct crack/spark of a battery short-circuit. I didn't think much of that (except to disconnect the batt. and tape it up [fix later]) until the shop closed, 20min later.

After the car didn't start, I had enough time to look at the starter's connection to the batt, and check all fuses, before pushing it into a parking spot outside the shop. Bad car. Go sleep outside.

I do not believe this 240 has a fusible link. Might actually be speaker wire.

10,000A fusible link... I should change that. I'm thinking an inline fuse (like for car audio).

In the meantime, can a starter motor die from a short-circuit?

Shorts don't typically take out the Starter motor. You can put in a fusable link or an inline fuse (40 amp, I think)

Sounds like the power connection you heard "crackle" is a short or real bad connection. You can physically test a connection by tugging or pulling on it. What I mean to say is that some fusable links and connections can actually fry inside the wire casing and still look good. Happens all the time. Reclamp connections, replace them if needed, be sure of the connection before moving on to the next issue....

Boy do you have issues.......

1) Disconnect the battery, Clean the terminals till they're shiny and looking new. Same with the battery clamps.

2) Disconnect the Ground wires on the firewall and above the frame ( across from the starter. Use a dremel or steel wire brush and clean the hell out both terminals, clean the contact area on the fender and the firewall (good clean metal) then rebolt the terminal tightly. Do the same for the battery's Ground wire on the starter or tranny bolt.

3) repeat the process for the Positive cable on the starter.

NOW would be a good time to upgrade you Battery Cables to 4-gauge if you haven't already. Better power transfer and less resistance.

Double check ALL connections at the combo switch, hazard switch, flasher unit, hazard flasher unit and every connection on the passenger side kick panel area. After you swap the fusebox, if you haven't already, make sure it's all tight and strongly connected to the harness.

I can't think of any thing else off the top of my head at the moment. It's late and my brain hurts.

Dave

[Zs-ondabrain]

Dave, you really must love this old jap car. Not only share/collect knowledge, but improve upon the old technology and help advance the whole 'z' community.

So this is where I take seperate post to publically thank "Zs-ondabrain".

For understanding when the first cheque didn't arrive.

For having my order complete, and shipped, about three days after his parts arrived. There was a slight delay for parts (his supplier's roof caved in) -- because of this, he shipped express post at his cost, without asking.

I purchsed his products for both an upgrade and possible problem fix (to the issues above). When he realized that the upgrade would likely not fix my problem, helps me find a solution through both this site and emails.

He also offered, after reading about my corroded headlight pigtails, to make a new "stock headlight wireing kit".

"3pin connector for the headlight bucket, 3pin connect in front of the rad, vinyl sleeving to cover the wires [paraphrase]"

I was going to wait until after my current problems went away to post this, but seriously? How great is it that there's such great people involved in keeping these cars alive... and willing to help the green guys (like me) put theirs together? Your efforts make me feel guilty for thinking of driving during the salty winter. Thank you.

Anyways, I really want to rip the dashboard off now.

I DO!! I Really Really Do love this stuff. It's basically all I do anymore. Talk Z's, work on Z's, think of and build Z upgrades, dream about Z's, write Poetry to my Z....... Just kiddin, but you get the idea.

I can't imagine where I'd be in life right now, if it weren't for my 240Z. The People I've met and befriended, The income and business that the Z's have generated thru upgrades and conversions, The car shows, tours, trips and drives. The car clubs, outings and just general get-togethers.

The 260Z is my 4th Z. The 70' was my first Z, not my first Datsun, the white 71' was a parts car that I stripped and sold parts for cheap to those in need, The 71' (Yellow) that I fixed up and sold for $1000 to a kid that destroyed his 1st and bought mine only to tear it apart, modify it and give up and gave the damn car away, peice by peice and never gave me a heads up to possibly get some items back from it.

I really appreciate the Praise, the "thank you's" and the continued patronage of every one of my customers, who take the time, after the sale, t write me back and tell me what my products and advise had done for them and their Z's. I hate to sound like a wuss but every so often, I get choked up and teary-eyed, as it humbles me to know that I may have actually made a difference in someones life, when I help bring their beloved classic Z back to life or get it back on the road.

I'm nobody special, just a guy who loves what he does and is very thankful for the people who are involved in every way, because of their cars.

Thanks for the Awesome letter Tom, you made my night.

Dave.