Adrian,

1. I mistyped - sorry, it was measured 2.68 kOhm

2. Re: options pin 1 kick-back - I will have to take the ECU's cover off to get my multimeter to the pin number 1 to get that voltage. I believe it does go to 400-600V range.

3. Output stage transistor on the side - easy to replace since the solder points are big with plenty of space on the circuit board. There are actually two of them.

4. I will trace pin 1 lead and see where it connects to on the board.

I can borrow an oscilloscope from a friend of mine. I am not sure if my voltmeter has hFe setting. I will double check it.

I'd love to fix my bad ECU even if I bought/have another unit. I don't mind working with electrical problems because there is logic to them (broken inside distributors or leaking oil pan is a different story).

We can keep the resoldering ECU business off this board via private emails to keep other threads on top. If classiczcars members are interested, I can attach the PDFs/images of troubleshooting later to this thread to sum it all up.

Thank you!

Hopefully, final update:

- the replacement ECU got my car running again without any hot wiring gimmicks to the CSV.

Thanks to all who helped me through this ordeal!