Different ball joints for different years?

[EricB]

Hi guys

does anyone know if the front balljoints change throughout the S30s model years? are there different part numbers between '69 and '78?

I ask because I bought some ball joints which were supposed to be for my '73 and while they do look identical to the ones currently on the car (even down to the grease fitting), they don't line up with the holes in my lower control arm.

If you put the new balljoint in the LCA opening so that it sits flush, the holes are easily 1/4" off...

Was I sold the wrong part or have some of you experience this?

BTW is the grease fitting a metric size?

I've got a (cheap) grease gun from Harbor Freight and it's near impossible for it to seal well against the fitting. Seems like I get more grease in my lap than what's actually going in to the fitting...

Thanks,

-e

[cbudvet]

There is a difference in the ball joints from the early years to later years. I have a 69 240z and when I went to purchase new ones from MSA, I was told that they no longer make ball joints for my car. The ball joints that are sold are for the 280z and require replacement of the control arms to fit. So.... I had to replace both the ball joints and control arms I hope this helps. Don't know about the grease fitting. Good luck.

carl

[JohnnyO]

Sounds like you either have been sold 11 mm ball joints (typically for early series 1 240'z) or have aftermarket steering knuckles. If you have a caliper you should measure the diameter of the ball joint shaft. It is either 11 ore 14mm.

[JohnnyO]

I went to purchase new ones from MSA, I was told that they no longer make ball joints for my car. ....

carl

Carl,

Rockauto.com still sells 11mm ball joints for use with the early series 1 z. I just had mine delivered Friday although they require a 5 day lead time before shipping.

Here is a link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209147

From what I understand the 14mm ball joint/knuckle combination provide a better steering experience.

John

[cbudvet]

Well crap! Thanks John. At least I'm not going for a concourse restoration.

carl

[EricB]

John

Thanks for the reply.

The fitment issue is not between the ball joint and the steering knuckle (I have some Nismo short steering knuckles FYI). The fitment issue is the 4 bolts that attach the ball joint to the lower control arm - that's where I am seeing the discrepancy...

Thanks for the details nonetheless...

I wasn't aware the earlier ones were becoming NLA. Good to know

-e

[JohnnyO]

Sorry, I must have misread your post.

So the ball joint sits on top of the control arm, you bolt in the 2 outer bolts to secure the ball joint to the control arm. You leave the other 2 bolt holes open so you can bolt the T/C rods to them once the suspension is back in place.

Does this sound right? All 4 holes on the ball joint should line up. I did this 2 days ago and still have my suspension out. I've attached a couple of pictures. If yours doesn't match up like that then you either have the wrong ball joints or the wrong control arms.

Can you attach a picture?

John

[EricB]

Like I said, I'm replacing ball joints on my 240.

The ones I'm removing obviously fit.

The ones I was sold (by MSA) were supposed to fit, but clearly don't.

That's why I was asking if there's a different part number for 260 / 280 or even for early/late 240.

the holes are easily off by a 1/4" or more... that's why i'm wondering if i was sent the wrong part...

[JohnnyO]

Well, according to the spec list at rockauto.com the 14mm ball joints they sell are for the following vehicles:

NISSAN 200SX (1977 - 1979)

NISSAN 240Z (1970 - 1973)

NISSAN 260Z 1974

NISSAN 260Z 2+2 1974

NISSAN 280Z (1975 - 1978)

NISSAN 280Z 2+2 (1975 - 1978)

I would say you got the wrong ball joints all together or like I said earlier someone changed out the control arms. Pretty simple.

[geezer]

I have seen this problem firsthand. I never did find an answer as far as a root cause. It has happened to others regardless of the different brand names on the boxes the ball joints came in. It has happened with both 11mm & 14mm balljoints. The fix was so simple, I didn't bother to research the root cause any further. I found the best solution was to remove a small amount of material from the control arm, allowing the bolt holes to align properly. It will not weaken or alter the suspension geometry. You could also remove some material from the ball joint or a combination of both, but I felt more comfortable taking it from the control arm.

Edited March 4, 2010 by geezer

[lbpdz]

My 71 came with two new ball joints, one was still in the box from Nissan, PN 40160-A8625. There were a ton of factory boxed parts in the car.

Don't know if that number helps, but I am hopeful that when I get to that stage, these will be a drop in fit

[tlorber]

I bought Meyle (sp?) ball joints from IMC. They were about 3/16" off.-The Germans and the Japanese never did quite see eye to eye.

Rather than looking for other ones, I took about 1/16" off the ball joint itself (angle grinder) and the remaing 1/8" out of the control arm (die grinder). More work than I expected when I bought them, but really only cost me about 25 minutes per side.

I think I paid around $12.00 for each ball joint.